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Monday 6 August
Packed and out the door by 9am. Lugged luggage to bus station in cool morning air. Bus left on time, almost a cookie cutter version of our Tallinn-Riga bus, but with sash rather than lap seat belts.
Uneventful farmland, fields and forests on the 4 ½ hour journey interrupted only by some very brief stops. Again no sign of a border between Latvia and Lithuania.
Arrived on time, bought tickets to Klaipeda for Friday (20 euro each) and got picked up and taken to apartment by Ignas (10 euro). Very spacious, on 2nd floor, with 2 toilets and 2 bedrooms. Only one bathroom though, and no toaster. Though we do have a microwave.
We shopped at the vast ‘Maxxxima’ supermarket up a steep hill (10 mins walk). Excellent range, supplies came to just 15 euro. There are a couple of small supermarkets even closer. Got eggs and more beer there.
Walked briefly into the Old Town. Our apartment is on the edge of the former Jewish Ghetto, where the Jewish population was imprisoned between 1941 and 1943, before being transported to camps.
As we walked closer to the centre, the rough edges were smoothed, and shops and restaurants became common, the pavement smother and the paintwork more recently renewed. The first impression is of a more open town than either Tallinn or Riga.
Dinner – calamari rings, roast potatoes and broccoli salad, was very tasty.
Beer of the day: Taurus Pilsener
Tuesday 7 August
Minuk is very sore this morning. Seems to be an effect of sitting down for hours on a bus. We had a leisurely breakfast and set out for the historic old town once more, through the former ghetto area. We are enjoying bright sunshine, though rain is predicted during the day. It did not seem possible as we came onto Piles gatve, the main street of the Old Town in brilliant sunlight.
The products in the shops here seem to be of a better standard than the shops in Tallinn and Riga, which seemed predominantly mass produced and generic tourist tat (all made in China no doubt). Here there is a greater number of somewhat original and interesting work.
The cafes were enjoying reasonable trade as we walked toward Cathedral Square, with its austere white cathedral and bell tower standing proud (if scaffolded). Standing as if at guard is the equestrian statue of Gedimas, the founder of Vilnius. The howling ‘Iron Wolf’ on the statue’s pediment was allegedly Gemimas’ inspiration to found the city, when he heard it howl as loud as 1000 wolves in a dream.
The interior of the cathedral is sparely decorated, with the exception of a couple of the chapels. That of St Casimir, apparently a rich man who eschewed the wealth to which he was born, did good works but died tragically is buried in an elaborately decorated tomb, festooned with gold and silver and rich artworks. No one does irony quite like the Catholic Church! Anyhow, I could not find an entrance to the storied vaults, where famous Lithuanians are buried, so we decided to continue on our way.
Beside the cathedral is the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, which has recently been reconstructed, and now provides a comprehensive and well displayed museum of Lithuanian history (full entry 6 euros). Too much detail of the numerous rulers and their various marriages, offspring wars and sieges though. Seriously complicated. The reconstructed rooms of the palace are sumptuous, with original furnishings representative of the times, but mostly copies of paintings (originals often in Wawel Castle in Krakow interestingly enough). Whilst we were touring the museum, the weather outside took a turn for the worse, in the form of a heavy rain shower.
We were able to leave the museum for lunch as out ‘full’ tickets allowed us to visit for the full day. We chose to eat at the very popular Katpedele, on Pilies gatve. This popular chain is the full pork and potato experience. We chose to try the iconic Cepelinai ( zeppelin), a truly enormous potato dumpling, in addition to the fascinating Potato Casserole with Pig’s ear. The zeppelin was OK, but a little bland, whilst the Potato casserole was tasty, with lovely crunchy slices of pig’s ear to add some texture.
Back at the museum, a pair of interesting temporary exhibitions, first ‘The Saxon Electors’ with a collection of porcelain, jewelry and other decorative art from Dresden, then a collection of paintings from Florence dubbed ‘From the Renaissance to the Baroque’ rounded out our visit. Most impressive. Even if I cannot now distinguish my Casimirs from my Sigismunds and my Vytautuses.
Minuk decided she had had enough walking and headed back to the apartment, browsing in shops on the way. I continued to explore, first seeking out the Funicular to ride up Gediminas Hill. Sadly, this facility is closed for repair, so I had to walk up the steep rocky path. A reasonable view from the top, but access severely restricted by reconstruction work. Retraced my steps back down the hill and walked alongside the lazily flowing Vilnia River, through the Bernadinai Gardens to St Anne’s Church, with its intricate brickwork and fine stained glass.
The next destination was Literatu gatve, where diverse ceramic tile artwork is displayed on some of the walls. The clouds began to look threatening, so I decided to head back toward the apartment, first dropping in to the MK Čiurlionis House and museum, where some of the artist’s works were on display.
Made my way from there back to the main drag, intending to pass through the Gates of Dawn before returning home. Unfortunately, I chose another likely looking portal with an illuminati pyramid and a dove set upon the rays of the sum which just lead to another church (Švč. Trejybės Pagarbinimas, whoever that is!). Made my way back, via the Lithuanian Philharmonic Society, Hales Market and the Coraline synagogue (only remaining one in Vilnius).
Dinner consisted of pork sausages (a bit meh), and the remains of yesterday’s salads and potatoes. Bit short of potatoes, so padded out with experimental toast making techniques. Best way is to use the top element in the oven. Cooking in frypan or on hotplate less successful.
Beer of the day: Švyturys Švyturio
Wednesday 8 August
Minuk woke once more in pain today. Took until after breakfast for the Panadol to kick in.
Today we walked to the bus station (20 minutes, uphill), and caught a bus to Trakai (2 euro each). Lots of freeways, overpasses and highways on the way. The trip took just half an hour, and then we were faced with a 2km walk to the castle from the bus station. At least Minuk’s pain seemed reduced.
We stopped to buy snacks at an Iki supermarket, where we had the misfortune to encounter the slowest checkout in the universe. A candidate for the DMV in Zootopia, our girl had that sort of get up and go. Minuk said that she apparently would not take banknotes, insisting on coins(!)
After that 15 minute delay, we walked on into town, and diverted to the lakeside path. Pedalo boats and rowboats, swans and their cygnets, the ruins of the peninsular castle, and finally the red brich walls of the castle floating above the blue placid lake.
Lunch was kibinai (Lithuanian shortcrust pasties) and greek salad. The dark Kibinis beer very nice too.
Afterward, we plodded slowly back to the bus station, catching a minibus back to town (2 euro). Very good AC on the minibus!
Rested at the apartment before I went on an expedition to Maxxxima for supplies to last the remainder of our stay in Vilnius. – catfish for dinner, reprised the broccoli salad and potatoes, plus blueberry ice cream for dessert.
Beer of the day: Kalnapinis Original lager
Thursday 9 August
After breakfast, we visited the University of Vilnius (1.50 Euro for the ‘architectural ensemble), a venerable institution founded over 450 years ago. It occupies a large site in the heart of the old town, centred about the Grand Courtyard, which is presided over by St John’s Church and Bell tower. The church is over-the-top baroque inside, though the facade is more restrained. Chose not to pay extra to ascend the belltower. Other notable sights included the Observatory Courtyard, with signs of the zodiac on the façade, the frescoes on the vaults of the Bookshop, some interesting frescoes in the vestibule of the Philology Department, depicting local mythical motifs which are bizarre if not slightly disturbing. By contrast, the first floor Greek and Roman designs in the foyers were restrained. We were also able to visit the lovely ‘Great Hall’ of the University Library, and view the fine decorations, and peruse the historic books on display.
It was not yet lunchtime, so we decided to check out the so called ‘Republic of Užupis’, located across the Vilnia River. Walked there via Literatu gatve to show Minuk the ceramic work on its walls.
It was getting quite warm, and we found Užupis underwhelming. Interesting ‘Angel’ statue in the main square, and an amusing ‘Constitution’, but only barely worth the walk in the hot sun. The eating places seemed uninspiring and a little expensive. And the area seemed hot. So we bailed and returned to Pilies gatve, passing At Anne’s Church en route, choosing in the end to eat once more at Katpedele.
I chose the cheekily named ‘Shit Out, Potato In :} Bulviniai vėdarai, which turned out to be pretty much as expected. Quoth Minuk “Potato Sausage”. Oh well, sort of had to try it! Hake with roast vegies was a little tastier, but Lithuanian cuisine does not rise to great heights.
Back to apartment for afternoon rest in cool of AC. I did a beer run, then walked out to check out the ‘Gates of Dawn’, the surviving gate of the Old Town, site apparently of a miraculous painting of ‘Mary, Mother of Mercy’ in the adjacent chapel. The usual bullshit to get money from the credulous. Picked up a Beef Shawarma (4 euro) from the place across the road. It was passable.
In addition, we ate the left over smoked chicken from Riga, and yesterday’s salads and icecream.
Beer of the Day: Tauras Sopeno No 1
Packed and out the door by 9am. Lugged luggage to bus station in cool morning air. Bus left on time, almost a cookie cutter version of our Tallinn-Riga bus, but with sash rather than lap seat belts.
Uneventful farmland, fields and forests on the 4 ½ hour journey interrupted only by some very brief stops. Again no sign of a border between Latvia and Lithuania.
Arrived on time, bought tickets to Klaipeda for Friday (20 euro each) and got picked up and taken to apartment by Ignas (10 euro). Very spacious, on 2nd floor, with 2 toilets and 2 bedrooms. Only one bathroom though, and no toaster. Though we do have a microwave.
We shopped at the vast ‘Maxxxima’ supermarket up a steep hill (10 mins walk). Excellent range, supplies came to just 15 euro. There are a couple of small supermarkets even closer. Got eggs and more beer there.
Walked briefly into the Old Town. Our apartment is on the edge of the former Jewish Ghetto, where the Jewish population was imprisoned between 1941 and 1943, before being transported to camps.
As we walked closer to the centre, the rough edges were smoothed, and shops and restaurants became common, the pavement smother and the paintwork more recently renewed. The first impression is of a more open town than either Tallinn or Riga.
Dinner – calamari rings, roast potatoes and broccoli salad, was very tasty.
Beer of the day: Taurus Pilsener
Tuesday 7 August
Minuk is very sore this morning. Seems to be an effect of sitting down for hours on a bus. We had a leisurely breakfast and set out for the historic old town once more, through the former ghetto area. We are enjoying bright sunshine, though rain is predicted during the day. It did not seem possible as we came onto Piles gatve, the main street of the Old Town in brilliant sunlight.
The products in the shops here seem to be of a better standard than the shops in Tallinn and Riga, which seemed predominantly mass produced and generic tourist tat (all made in China no doubt). Here there is a greater number of somewhat original and interesting work.
The cafes were enjoying reasonable trade as we walked toward Cathedral Square, with its austere white cathedral and bell tower standing proud (if scaffolded). Standing as if at guard is the equestrian statue of Gedimas, the founder of Vilnius. The howling ‘Iron Wolf’ on the statue’s pediment was allegedly Gemimas’ inspiration to found the city, when he heard it howl as loud as 1000 wolves in a dream.
The interior of the cathedral is sparely decorated, with the exception of a couple of the chapels. That of St Casimir, apparently a rich man who eschewed the wealth to which he was born, did good works but died tragically is buried in an elaborately decorated tomb, festooned with gold and silver and rich artworks. No one does irony quite like the Catholic Church! Anyhow, I could not find an entrance to the storied vaults, where famous Lithuanians are buried, so we decided to continue on our way.
Beside the cathedral is the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, which has recently been reconstructed, and now provides a comprehensive and well displayed museum of Lithuanian history (full entry 6 euros). Too much detail of the numerous rulers and their various marriages, offspring wars and sieges though. Seriously complicated. The reconstructed rooms of the palace are sumptuous, with original furnishings representative of the times, but mostly copies of paintings (originals often in Wawel Castle in Krakow interestingly enough). Whilst we were touring the museum, the weather outside took a turn for the worse, in the form of a heavy rain shower.
We were able to leave the museum for lunch as out ‘full’ tickets allowed us to visit for the full day. We chose to eat at the very popular Katpedele, on Pilies gatve. This popular chain is the full pork and potato experience. We chose to try the iconic Cepelinai ( zeppelin), a truly enormous potato dumpling, in addition to the fascinating Potato Casserole with Pig’s ear. The zeppelin was OK, but a little bland, whilst the Potato casserole was tasty, with lovely crunchy slices of pig’s ear to add some texture.
Back at the museum, a pair of interesting temporary exhibitions, first ‘The Saxon Electors’ with a collection of porcelain, jewelry and other decorative art from Dresden, then a collection of paintings from Florence dubbed ‘From the Renaissance to the Baroque’ rounded out our visit. Most impressive. Even if I cannot now distinguish my Casimirs from my Sigismunds and my Vytautuses.
Minuk decided she had had enough walking and headed back to the apartment, browsing in shops on the way. I continued to explore, first seeking out the Funicular to ride up Gediminas Hill. Sadly, this facility is closed for repair, so I had to walk up the steep rocky path. A reasonable view from the top, but access severely restricted by reconstruction work. Retraced my steps back down the hill and walked alongside the lazily flowing Vilnia River, through the Bernadinai Gardens to St Anne’s Church, with its intricate brickwork and fine stained glass.
The next destination was Literatu gatve, where diverse ceramic tile artwork is displayed on some of the walls. The clouds began to look threatening, so I decided to head back toward the apartment, first dropping in to the MK Čiurlionis House and museum, where some of the artist’s works were on display.
Made my way from there back to the main drag, intending to pass through the Gates of Dawn before returning home. Unfortunately, I chose another likely looking portal with an illuminati pyramid and a dove set upon the rays of the sum which just lead to another church (Švč. Trejybės Pagarbinimas, whoever that is!). Made my way back, via the Lithuanian Philharmonic Society, Hales Market and the Coraline synagogue (only remaining one in Vilnius).
Dinner consisted of pork sausages (a bit meh), and the remains of yesterday’s salads and potatoes. Bit short of potatoes, so padded out with experimental toast making techniques. Best way is to use the top element in the oven. Cooking in frypan or on hotplate less successful.
Beer of the day: Švyturys Švyturio
Wednesday 8 August
Minuk woke once more in pain today. Took until after breakfast for the Panadol to kick in.
Today we walked to the bus station (20 minutes, uphill), and caught a bus to Trakai (2 euro each). Lots of freeways, overpasses and highways on the way. The trip took just half an hour, and then we were faced with a 2km walk to the castle from the bus station. At least Minuk’s pain seemed reduced.
We stopped to buy snacks at an Iki supermarket, where we had the misfortune to encounter the slowest checkout in the universe. A candidate for the DMV in Zootopia, our girl had that sort of get up and go. Minuk said that she apparently would not take banknotes, insisting on coins(!)
After that 15 minute delay, we walked on into town, and diverted to the lakeside path. Pedalo boats and rowboats, swans and their cygnets, the ruins of the peninsular castle, and finally the red brich walls of the castle floating above the blue placid lake.
Lunch was kibinai (Lithuanian shortcrust pasties) and greek salad. The dark Kibinis beer very nice too.
Afterward, we plodded slowly back to the bus station, catching a minibus back to town (2 euro). Very good AC on the minibus!
Rested at the apartment before I went on an expedition to Maxxxima for supplies to last the remainder of our stay in Vilnius. – catfish for dinner, reprised the broccoli salad and potatoes, plus blueberry ice cream for dessert.
Beer of the day: Kalnapinis Original lager
Thursday 9 August
After breakfast, we visited the University of Vilnius (1.50 Euro for the ‘architectural ensemble), a venerable institution founded over 450 years ago. It occupies a large site in the heart of the old town, centred about the Grand Courtyard, which is presided over by St John’s Church and Bell tower. The church is over-the-top baroque inside, though the facade is more restrained. Chose not to pay extra to ascend the belltower. Other notable sights included the Observatory Courtyard, with signs of the zodiac on the façade, the frescoes on the vaults of the Bookshop, some interesting frescoes in the vestibule of the Philology Department, depicting local mythical motifs which are bizarre if not slightly disturbing. By contrast, the first floor Greek and Roman designs in the foyers were restrained. We were also able to visit the lovely ‘Great Hall’ of the University Library, and view the fine decorations, and peruse the historic books on display.
It was not yet lunchtime, so we decided to check out the so called ‘Republic of Užupis’, located across the Vilnia River. Walked there via Literatu gatve to show Minuk the ceramic work on its walls.
It was getting quite warm, and we found Užupis underwhelming. Interesting ‘Angel’ statue in the main square, and an amusing ‘Constitution’, but only barely worth the walk in the hot sun. The eating places seemed uninspiring and a little expensive. And the area seemed hot. So we bailed and returned to Pilies gatve, passing At Anne’s Church en route, choosing in the end to eat once more at Katpedele.
I chose the cheekily named ‘Shit Out, Potato In :} Bulviniai vėdarai, which turned out to be pretty much as expected. Quoth Minuk “Potato Sausage”. Oh well, sort of had to try it! Hake with roast vegies was a little tastier, but Lithuanian cuisine does not rise to great heights.
Back to apartment for afternoon rest in cool of AC. I did a beer run, then walked out to check out the ‘Gates of Dawn’, the surviving gate of the Old Town, site apparently of a miraculous painting of ‘Mary, Mother of Mercy’ in the adjacent chapel. The usual bullshit to get money from the credulous. Picked up a Beef Shawarma (4 euro) from the place across the road. It was passable.
In addition, we ate the left over smoked chicken from Riga, and yesterday’s salads and icecream.
Beer of the Day: Tauras Sopeno No 1