Off to the textile museum via Post Office - postcards are indeed 50 sen to send!
Morning visit to Muzium Negara for a summary of Malaysian history from stone age to the present.
Had lunch at the Medan Selera Food Court, above the western entrance to KL Sentral Station. Food was not up to the standard we'd found at Pasar Seni, but not bad value. We both chose Nasi Lemak sets. Miuk had chicken, and I had squid. We got vegies from another stall, and I tried mango kulfi (RM6) from the tandoori stall. Took the train back to Regalia and had a swim at the rooftop pool. Refreshing even if the sun was hot on the black plastic of the walkways. We met our driver Bala (from WegowithAnuar.com) and set of for our tour at just before 3pm. First stop was Royal Selangor, where we enjoyed a 40 minute guided tour, learning about the pewter trade. There were some demonstrations of the pewter making craft, ranging from pouring molten metal into a mould, to lathing and shaping, polishing and hammering (which we got to try). Ten minutes in the gift shop (expensive) and we were on our way to Kuala Selangor, about an hours drive away. Bala was pretty passionate about the position of Indians in Malaysia today. Quite a balanced view actually. He recognized both the advantages and the limits this particular multicultural society provides to its citizens. On the way to Kuala Selangor, much of the landscape is given over to vast oil palm plantations. Apparently a profitable and easier to manage business than the rubber plantations which the oil palms replaced. Stopped for a look to see the fruits, which were harvested up to 3 times per year, after just 3 years growth of the palm. Soon the hill of Bukit Melawati was visible in the distance, and we drove up the steep access road. Just below the British constructed lighthouse a crowd of tourists gathered, feeding fruit and vegetables to a large troup of sliverleaf monkeys who were sitting on the guard rails, on the road, and on old cannons which once defended the strategic hilltop. We were issued with monkey food(sliced ubi) and instructed to hide the bag in ones pocket (lest the lot be stolen). These monkeys had soft and quite gentle hands. They did not grab, and ate daintily. There was some scrabbling between monkeys, though not particularly aggressive. The macaques (which we'd been advised NOT to feed), hung around in the background, perhaps waiting for scraps. Some of the monkeys were keener than others, allowing the opportunity for selfis with monkey to be captured. There were no babies with the troupe around the cannons, but we saw three of the startlingly orange furred progeny near a TV towe on the way down the hill. But it was time to find dinner, which we ate at one of many restaurants in a fishing village, strung along the shores of the Selangor River. We ate in a big open barn of a place, with rowdy chinese tourists beside us. There was certainly plenty of food. The dishes served included sweet and sour fish, crumbed prawns with basil and tiny cabe(1), a plate of stir-fried vegies, tempura-ed calamari and a deliciously smoky village fried rice. We washed it down with refreshing kelapa muda drinks. By the time we were done, the sun had set over the muddy river, and it was time to head on to the final destination, the firefly reserve at Kuala Kuantan. It was a 15 minute drive to the park. We were there before the ticket office opened. A few other tourists were waiting too. There was time to read the information about the life cycle of the tiny insects we had come to see. The kelip-kelip (twinkle twinkle in Indonesian) live just 9 months on the banks of the mangroves, or in the trees which line them. Eggs laid in the muddy banks hatch year round, and the larvae feed on the the multitudes of miniature snails which thrive in the moist muddy environment, until, fat & sassy, they pupate, and emerge as flashy adults, thronging the mangrove trees in search of mates in order to carry on the species. It was the adults we had come to see, and soon enough, tickets were procured, lifejackets donned and we were seated in our shallow drafted wooden boat. Our boat had a single oarsman. The only sound to be heard as we were slowly paddled down the river was the gently splish and splash as the oar dipped into the river. As our eyes became dark adjusted, thousands of twinkling lights became visible in the trees as the fireflies participated in mating dances, wreathed in cold chemical fire. Our oarsman brought us up close to the trees, so we could see the tiny bodies of individual fireflies, abdomens flickering in sensuous rhythms (well just flickering randomly actually!). Our twenty minute cruise on the river was surprisingly pleasurable - the tiny light-show was anything but an anticlimax at the end of the tour. The ululating recorded cry of the muezzin at the village mosque sounded through the darkness as we walked back to the carpark, and rested on the hour-long drive back to KL. We enjoyed our breakfast of paru (lung), tempe, tahu, chicken, vegies and rice with deep fried squid!. The sambal on the vegies was quite spicy. Finshed with very good Campagne bread. Of to the Art Deco Pasar Seni by taxi (RM7), to save Minuk's blisters. The Pasar Seni is an old wet market, once slated for demolition, but saved and reborn as a craft market. It is even air conditioned and has a food court so makes for a comfortable outing.
A quick turn of the stalls was enough for me, so we agred to meet again after an hour. Minuk shopped and browsed, I went looking at the architectural sites of Chinatown. This meant hunting down the distinctive shophouses, with their dutch gables or art deco stylings. Often painted in bright colours, the most spiffy usually converted to restaurants or swank shops. I had a brief look in the roofed section of Petaling Street, where the famous night market occurs each evening. Took 1 minute to be asked if I wanted a massage. I spied leather belts and bargained down from RM65 to RM15. I bought two because the guy gave me the asking price. Possibly for first sale of the day. The side alleys leading off Jalan Petaling were lined with small restaurants, and even at 11am in the morning, business was booming. The smells from the kitchens were pretty good too. Down Jalan Tun T.S Lee, I found the impressive Sri Maha Mariamman temple, its tall gopuram richly decorated with polychrome hindu deities. It cost 20 sen to have ones shoes minded. Inside stories from hindu pantheon the are depicted in colourful murals on the walls. I walked back through narrow alleys, past a wet market and more food stalls to return to Jalan Petaling. Thence to the so called 'Golden Triangle' (a triangular intersection (!!), and out onto Old Market Square, with its fine dutch gabled shophouses and Art Deco Clock. I eventually made my way to the banks of the Klang River, where the many domed Masjid Jamek sits at the confluence of the Gombak and the Klang. There is a project underway to beautify the waterway, which would be a great idea. Until then, many hoardings block the architectural elements of the building from best view. It was time to make my way back to the Pasar Seni, where I met Minuk for lunch. We chose to eat at the very comfortable 1st Floor Food Court, where we tried respectively Lele Penyek, and Ayam Penyek from the Aneka penyek stall. Delicious indeed and just RM7 each. We walked off lunch by checking out the sights of Merdeka Square, which is lined with impressive buildings from colonial days. In the south east corner, either side of Lebuah Pasar Besar are found the former Federated Malay States Railway Station and Selangor Works Department, now repurposed as the National Textile Museum and the 1896 Govermment Office. North of these fine structures, and spanning most of the eastern side of the square in the grand Sultan Abdul Samud Building. Lining the southern side of the square are the son to be reopened Music Museum, and the KL City Gallery. A shopping mall hides under the green sward of the maidan, where no doubt colonials played cricket and polo in former days. Indeed, the mock tudor Royal Selangor Club still guards the western side of the square, just north of the Kuala Lumpur City Library. Above a raised platform stands a tall flagpole flying the Malaysian flag. It was here in 1956 that the Union Jack was lowered for the last time, upon the emergence of the newly independent Malaysia. Here it was that Tun Adbdul Razak's shout of 'Merdeka, Merdeka, Merdeka', was echoed by the crowds there to witness history. Mosaics portraits of the participants are arrayed around the flagpole. Rather incongruously, the Victorian fountain which once stood in the old Market Square has also been placed here. The sun was reflected hotly off the pavement as we walked north along Jalan Raya, though some natural AC could be had from the sculpture fountain. Back to Regalia on the LRT - passed KL Theatre and Masjid Jamek en route to station Swim in 5th floor pool to cool off Took a taxi RM10 to Dataran Merdeka via Kenny Hills (to avoid the trafic jams and my meter is rusak quoth Kai, the rather jolly driver. Took photos of the illuminated buildings on the square, then walked to Jalan Petaling via Pasar Seni. The night market was disappointing. Less food than this morning, and stall after stall of the same or similar merchandise - fakes, t-shirts, leather, phone covers and some headphones. Had satay at Pasar Seni RM11 for 12 sticks - cheaper than the street stall we spied. Walked via Pasar Seni station back to KL station and home. Set off early for Kuala Lumpur Station, en route to the Islamic Museum. Took the time to enjoy the architecture of the old station, though it looks past its best days - dark and gloomy. Across the road, the HQ of KTM Kommuter is also very grand.
Already hot and humid as we walk past the National Mosque. Decide not to go in for a visit. We're early for the museum - opens at 10am. The exhibition rooms are well set out, high and airy, with stucco domes in the ceilings. The collection is vast and spans the top two levels of the building. There are
Noted that Allah created man from a drop of congealed blood and exhorted him to learn and to read, The ancient islamic world of course had a great tradition of learning, one which sadly is notably absent in the loudest voices today. Also learned that the reason that miniature paintings were OK is that the images were stylized, and hence not a true image. At least intellectual sophistry is alive and well! Not enough seats though, and the viewing platform was closed for no apparent reason. There would have been a good view of the National Mosque from the platform. We had to make do with peeling through the curtains. After our visit we tried to get a taxi to Bukit Bintang, but the two drivers we asked would not use the meter (though to be fair, the RM10 quoted by the 2nd driver was not too bad). Instead took the train(RM1) to KL Sentral, then the monorail (RM2.60) to Bukit Bintang. Before setting off we had refreshments in the 'Heritage' Restaurant in the old KL Railway Station. This proved to be a cheap cafeteria, where food could be selected from bain maries. I had a very tasty jelly drink, mango flavoured, whilst Minuk contented herself with Diet Coke. The train disgorged us at the busy intersection of Jalan Bukit Bintang and Jalan Sultan Ismail, where massive construction works made orientation and walking difficult. We were searching for street food options at the famed Jalan Alor, but were given dud directions by a tourist kiosk - which sent us pretty much in the opposite direction! We did find the way eventually, but decided to eat at S.P Corner, on Tongkat Tong Shin, which had Martabak & Roti Chenai, and a pick your food bar as well. We supplemented these selections with a coconut drink. Total bill - RM16.20. Afterward we walked up Jalan Alor (lanterns strung above the street ready for the night market), where the food looked good, though many stalls were closed. Maybe busier at night. A brief diversion to Lot 10 mall saw us investigate the 'Hutong' style food court (rather claustrophobic), and buy supplies at the surprisingly economical Isetan Food Store. Back by monorail to KS Sentral (got Campagne bread, big loaf for RM11.20), and returned home. Had a swim in the infinity pool. Much more crowded than our last Decided against a return to the night markets, instead headed out to MidValley Mall, to buy vegies for breakfast at Makan Place (RM3), and eat dinner at Dubu Dubu (Urban Korean Food), which we'd spied on our earlier trip. The set meal looked good on the picture menu, but sadly was a bit disappointing in the taste department (RM56.20). Bulgogi onions too raw, signature Soondubu Jigae bland. Side dishes and desert OK. Back home and soon to bed. Slept very well and woke refreshed. Breakfasted on eggs (kindly left by the last tenants) and toasted bread (which was better than I expected).
Did some dithering and electronic time-wasting before setting out for a morning trip to Batu Caves. Just missed a train from Putra, so had to wait another 40 minutes for the next one to arrive. The fare was RM2 this time. Train was pretty full (and of course we had to avoid the women's coach). Batu Caves was the 5th and last station on the line which pased the old British cantonment site, and the outer suburbs of KL on the way. The limestone hill containing the caves rears up from the flat lands around, and just outside the station, a giant green Hanuman leers at arriving patrons. The sun was bright and hot as we took a small diversion into this temple dedicated to the monkey god where the local hindu population were partaking of their temple visiting rituals. Behind the temple, a grumpy man was selling tickets to the 'Ramayana cave', burrowed into the foot of the cliffs. We decided to skip this attraction. Temples, an art gallery and a performance space divide the wide pathway from the cliffs. We followed the crowd along the path. Indians in their temple visiting best, tourists taking selfies and a gaggle of children following their respective parents made up the throng. The giant gold statue of Lord Murugan greets us, standing to the right of the daunting triplicate flight of 272 steps leading to the 'Temple' or 'Cathedral' cave. A chap at the base of the steps told us we must remove our shoes to climb the stairs. I guess we must have been specially chosen, because many other fold were indeed still shod. The climb was hot and sweaty work, even when the cliffs shaded us from the sun. During rest stops we observed the numerous macaques chowing down on the largesse of visitors. Some of the food no doubt stolen by the sometimes aggressive monkeys. One grabbed a woman's scarf as she walked past, and hissed and bore its teeth when denied. I also spotted one enterprising individual cradling a drink bottle. And yes, he was drinking from a hole bitten in the base! At the top of the stairs we walk beneath a colonnade, surmounted by a pantheon of gods to a huge cleft, an inverted V which punctures the hilltop. Polychrome temples are scattered among the rugged walls. Water drips through the limestone, making puddles on the path. Minuk decided to put her shoes on. After the long walk down we stopped for a well earned coconut drink. No requirement for sweetener. We watched the vendor risk defingeration as we swiped bottom and top off the coconut, opening it with a viciously sharp hatchet. We took the train back to Putra, En route we were afflicted with a very lout English gent in the seat just in front of us. He just went on, and on, and on and on, talking at the top of his voice to his travelling companions opposite. As is always the case, it was not a very interesting conversation either. Finally were released from purgatory, and walked down past the Putra World Mall which is currently being renovated, to the Chow Kit district, where we went in search of lunch. We'd given the Hyderabad Restaurant a miss when it began to rain, On the corner of Jalan Putra and Jalan .... we lucked upon a mini food court. Half a dozen small stalls shared a seating area under spinning ceiling fans. The offerings looked good and cheap, and a crowd was eating there. So we took a table and ordered. My curry laksa and Minuk's choice of dry noodles cost less than RM15 with drinks. The cooking was so good we bought takeaway char kuey tow from another vendor for breakfast. Rested through the afternoon, then set out to see the Petronas Towers close up. Took the train from Putra to the grand old Kuala Lumpur station, and after the odd wrong turn, found our way via a covered walkway to the elevated Pasar Seni LRT station. Along the banks of the Klang River the graffiti artists of town have set up an extensive gallery of their works. Tickets to KLCC were RM2.60 each. The train runs underground most of the way. Exited at KLCC inside a mall. Out into the street to see the twin towers virtually right before our eyes. Plaza in front of the towers rather too small to encompass them. Lots of folk taking pictures depicting them holding u the towers, dangling one from each hand. Also many selfies Dewan Philharmonic Hall between the towers. Foyer's floor design makes one dizzy. Suria KLCC mall like all the others we have seen. Nice views of the towers across the lake in ?? Park. Tried to find the elevated walkway to Pavilion Mall, but took the long way around out of the park. Lots of western outlets in the central food hall of Pavilion. We chose a Chinese restaurant away from the bustle. Had a very fine meal of Chilli Tea Chicken, Golden Honey BBQ pork and kangkung belacan. We thought we'd never finish it, but managed to prevail. Cost was RM81 - probably equal to what we have paid for all other meals on the trip to date! Taxi back home cost just RM7 On Thursday evening we tidied the house, fed the cats and stocked their cat feeders with dry food for the mornings ahead. Butters got a cuddle and was deposited in the courtyard, where he proceeded to place his head in the foodbowl and get stuck right into it, whilst Ruskin, on being shown his rations on the back steps was more aloof, as is his wont, and had a desultory sniff, and sauntered off.
Evening meals will be served by our neighbour Dorota so there will be no starving kitties when we get home. Our taxi arrived very soon after it was ordered, and we were at the airport and just before 11pm. Taxi cost $78. We had considered going the self drive and parking route, but twas too late to book the 50% off rate so gave it a miss. Check-in lines were long and slow, and once we got to the counter we were informed that we could have used an alternate and faster 'bag drop' line because we had already printed our boarding passes. We did get a day voucher for the Sama Sama Hotel at KLIA for use on our trip home (because of the cancelled earlier flight). Queues for Security theatre were blessedly short, but a shortage of staf on duty made the wait at immigration long. Our gate lounge was at the very far end of the new arrivals section at Tullamarine, and a pretty decent hike! Boarded and on our way on time at 12:45am. Served a snack (peanuts, then a tasty chicken sausage roll with salsa) then tried to rest for the slightly elongated night. Some snoozes were had by both of us. Nice breakfast (nasi ....... - rice, prawns & beans with a tasty sambal. No doubt very superior to the alternate potato fritata). Arrival at KLIA, in darkness, was just before 6:00 am. Only a minority of the passengers on our flight stopped off in Malaysia. Luggage correction and immigration were thereby pleasingly uncrowded. We had to ask directions to find the taxi counter, and had to insist on the 'budget' taxi (RM74.50) when we were originally assigned a 'premier' taxi (RM107). Dawn had broken by the time our taxi was on the expressway to KL, about 70 km away. The drive was at first very fast, but later we ran into heavier traffic, with motorcycles daringly whizzing through the gaps. Exchanged texts with Guan, our host to find that he was caught in traffic too, after having dropped his daughter at school. Our taxi driver eventually found Regaiia Apartments, after a couple of wrong turns, and dropped us off at the lobby. It took nearly an hour for Guan to arrive to take us up to the apartment. The apartment is on the 10th floor of C Block, with a pretty much uninterrupted view of the KL skyline, with the Petronas Towers prominent. Al the rooms are spacious, spotless and quite well equipped. Guan himself is a jolly chap, and spent plently of time advising us on how to navigate the city and the sights, and how to work the apartment. Most tricky is the fancy electronic keycard, which it took us a few goes to master. |
AuthorKen Richards ArchivesCategories |