Saturday 2 January
Despite the cramped quarters, a fine night sleep was had by both of us. We had a leisurely breakfast overlooking the Mekong River. Fruit, omelette, baguette and coffee.
Afterward, we strolled around the quiet streets of the old town, lined with French style villas and studded with wats both large and small. Some homes and businesses were flying the twin flags of the Lao PDR, and the hammer and sickle, a reminder that we are in one of the few remaining communist states.
Wat Xieng Thong is one of the more famous wats in town, and has a fine prayer hall (sim). Its elegant roofs are low to the ground, and on the west end gable, a ‘tree of life’ mosaic, in mirror tiles is very impressive. Inside, the walls are emblazoned with gold on black and gold or dark red stencilwork of mandalas and apsaras. There is a constant stream of worshippers, paying obeisance to the gilded Buddha images set in their thrones.
Around the main hall are a number of small chapel halls, known as hor, which hold Buddha images (if unlocked), but which bear fine mirror mosaics depicting village life, the actions of kings and the gods. The Hohng Kep Mien is a garage for the ceremonial carriage used to cart the funeral urns of Lao kings. It is guarded by the heads of fierce nagas. The interior walls are again ablaze with mirror shard mosaic, whilst the front gable is resplendent in red and gold reliefs. Stopping to buy postcards and stamps at a stall in the grounds, we left va the Elephant gate to walk down to the banks of the Nam Kanh river, where some of the fancier restaurants have taken over old villas.
Our choice for lunch was Bamboo Tree, where we chose a ‘tasting plate’ of 9 dishes was filling and excellent. The dishes included Louang Prabang Pork Sausage, fried water weed squares – like nori, a tasty Lao salad, delicious smoky eggplant sauce (Jiew Mark Khuea), minced chicken stuffed in lemongrass, dry pork fried in sesame seed, a stewed pork dish called Aw Lam (not Minuk’s favourite), Larb Kai (chicken), served with purple sticky rice. Desert was fresh mango and banana. We had one platter each! Yum. Total cost 192000 kip including drinks. We made a reservation for Monday lunch at ‘Tamarind’, a restaurant recommended by the staff at our hotel.
Back at the hotel, we moved into a 1st floor twin room at the rear of the hotel. Slightly more spacious, and a fresher bathroom. Nearer the hot water supply for Minuk. Very satisfactory. We get to try one of the more expensive balcony rooms on the 1st floor on Monday night.
After a rest in the room, I went for an expedition up Phousi Hill to join the other sunset junkies atop the hill at the stupa of That Chomsi. The crowds were more spectacular than the sunset, but there were nice views to be had over town. Entry to the hill was 20000 kip, and the climb up the steps was just as steep.
Looking for a lighter evening meal, we chose to walk through the busy Night Handcraft Market, in search of the narrow BBQ restaurant street. This proved to be impossibly crowded at what seemed like the best stalls, and rather hot and stuffy to boot. We reluctantly left the delicious odour of char-grilled meats, and chose a crepes and baguette stand. My baguette sandwich contained salad plus chicken, bacon and avocado, with fried onions, and was acceptable at 20000 kip, though Minuk’s crepe had an incongruously sweet crust and savoury filling (same price). Later we returned to Khemkhong View restaurant on the riverside to share a coconut and mango/sticky rice. Satisfied, it was off to bed after dropping off 2.5kg of washing (30000 kip)
Sunday 3 January
We woke to cloudy skies, with mist hanging low over the hills. Chose Ramen with egg for breakfast as a contrast to many days of American breakfast. Fruit was good too.
The previous day we had booked a morning tour to feed and ride elephants, and visit Tat Kuang Si (US$25), a well renowned waterfall about 35km south of town. Our pickup was at 8:30am, and we tootled around town collecting other passengers. Our happy crew included a gay couple with allergies from Denver, two quiet Americans, an older couple from Montreal, and the irrepressible Sunny Mutton from the Sunshine Coast. The ride out of town was through mixed agricultural land, and teak plantations.
We got to the Luang Prabang Elephant Camp (www.luangprabangelephantcamp.com) at about 10am. After some instruction about elephants (The elephants at the cam are ‘rescued’ from logging work, and have been nursed back to health, they only sleep 4 hours a day, and when they are not sleeping, they need to eat – 200 kg a day of sugar cane, banana leaves and trunks and rice, there are only about 1200 elephants in Laos – no longer a land of a million elephants).
We fed the elephants in their pens, some more enthusiastic than others for a feed. The powerful trunks rip a banana leaf out of a person’s hand. The manipulation of the food by the trunk is fascinating. Soon enough it was time for a ride (movement helps digestion it seems). Once aboard the howdah, the ride was gently rolling, and the view fine. Our elephant was a short and slow one called Kham Seng. She was pretty much remote controlled and knew the way along the 30 minute expedition. Our mahout was soon off her (all the elephants at the camp are female) shoulders and snapping photos like the very best of paparazzi. Soon enough it was time to hop off and, after a bit more feeding, back in the minivan for the drive up to the waterfall. A fun time though. Everyone left the camp with a smile on their face.
It was a shady walk up through the forest to the waterfalls. On the way, was the Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre (www.freethebears.org) where Asiatic Black Bears, liberated from poachers are housed, it seems permanently. If released, apparently, poachers would once more capture them, such is the demand for bear products. The bears it must be said, look pretty bored.
The sounds of falling water can be heard through the trees, and soon amazingly azure blue pools appear, fed by tumbling cascades. There are change rooms for prospective swimmers, but the cool air dissuades us from trying. The path winds further upstream, revealing more small pools and waterfalls, until a footbridge spans a final pool, above which is the main wall, cascading down from 25 metres or more. The rocks are stained white with calcium carbonate, and everyone is taking a selfie.
We enjoyed the view, and chose to walk back down the road to the car park, where the smell of roasting meat beckoned. Half a dozen or more vendors offered whole chicken, fish and pork, charcoal grilled, it turns out, to perfection. We chose one at random and selected the whole roasted river fish, plus a vegie stir fry and steamed rice. The fish was delicious – fresh, with that wonderful charcoal taste. Washed down with a coconut. And all for about 70000 kip. Tummies sated, we made the round of the souvenir stalls, before meeting back at the minivan. Our happy crew awaited, though our driver was late. A couple had braved the waters and pronounced them not too cold! We were back in Luang Prabang by 2pm. A rest break in our room was in order.
Come dusk, Minuk made a solo expedition to the Night Handcraft Market, and, unencumbered by negative vibes from unenthusiastic shoppers, cornered the market in silk scarves. At the same time, she was able to provide ‘lucky money’ to fortunate vendors.
For our evening meal, a change of pace. Steak with creamy pepper sauce and duck with merlot shallot sauce, with yummy chips at the Café Mekhong Fish. And actually, very acceptable (150000 kip with drinks).
Monday 4 January
We rose at sparrows fart to experience the traditional dawn Tak Bat in which monks parade along the streets and are given alms (sticky rice balls) by townsfolk. Thanon Sakkarin was dark and deserted when we arrived at 5:30am, save for a line of plastic stools on the north side of the street, some of them already with a matching basket of sticky rice. On the other side of the street, vendors were setting up stalls, and tourists arrived in dribs and drabs. Many of the donors are tourists (but from Japan or China, with the occasional Westerner unsure what to do). Finally, as the sky lightened marginally, the barefoot saffron parade began. Each donor gives each of the hundreds of monks a small rice ball. Unlucky last monk in line may go a bit hungry, as many donors run out, and leave the parade before in winds its way back to the monastery!
For us, it was back to Lankham for breakfast, then an expedition to the Royal Palace Museum, home of the Lao Royal family, such as it was. Between Phou Si and the Mekong, the early 20th Century building was the home of King Sisavang Vong, whose imposing statue stands within the compound.
The highlights of the interior are the Kings Reception Hall, whose walls are covered in faux-Gaugin murals depicting Lao life, and the ornate main throne room, whose deep red walls are covered in a plethora of mosaics in coloured mirror tiles. By contrast, the huge bedrooms of the King and Queen are desperately plain. In an outbuilding, the Kings collection of cars reflects his backers. A Citroen seems unloved compared with the grandeur of a pair of Lincoln Continentals. Though perhaps the King was falling from favour since the last car was an Edsel…
Also within the compound is Wat Ho Pha Bang, the most ornate structure by a country mile. The building houses the important Pha Bang Buddha image, from which the town has gained its name. The lower balustrades are crocodiles, and the upper ones multi-headed nagas. The façade is over the top gilding backed with green mirrored tiles. The portico which overhangs the entrance through which the rather nondescript statue can be seen swaps the green glass tiles for dark red. After our visit, we sat on benches at the base of Phou si Hill, watching the passing parade. Took the time to drop in to the tiny Wat Pahouak, whose interior contains some elaborate wall paintings. Then we walked down to the Nam Khan riverside in search of lunch booked prevously.
Lunch at Tamarind followed and was very good indeed. This was not a run of the mill restaurant, the cooking uses local ingredients, and uses them flavourfully and inventively. Our choices were:
After an afternoon rest, I went out to take photos of the Royal Palace Museum in the evening light. I was lucky enough to hear the orchestra practicing in the Phrolak-Phralam Theatre, and get some photos of a model, in national dress, who’d been brought into the grounds by a photographer. Minuk decided to reprise her exploits of the previous day at the Night Handcraft Market, returning this time with even more scarves, at cheaper prices.
Our final dinner in Luang Prabang was at the LPB Restaurant, on the Mekong riverside, where our choices were acceptable but not remarkable. We had spring rolls, morning glory with cashews and garlic and papaya salad (which was a bit too acidy for my liking). Had a final mango/sticky rice for desert.
Despite the cramped quarters, a fine night sleep was had by both of us. We had a leisurely breakfast overlooking the Mekong River. Fruit, omelette, baguette and coffee.
Afterward, we strolled around the quiet streets of the old town, lined with French style villas and studded with wats both large and small. Some homes and businesses were flying the twin flags of the Lao PDR, and the hammer and sickle, a reminder that we are in one of the few remaining communist states.
Wat Xieng Thong is one of the more famous wats in town, and has a fine prayer hall (sim). Its elegant roofs are low to the ground, and on the west end gable, a ‘tree of life’ mosaic, in mirror tiles is very impressive. Inside, the walls are emblazoned with gold on black and gold or dark red stencilwork of mandalas and apsaras. There is a constant stream of worshippers, paying obeisance to the gilded Buddha images set in their thrones.
Around the main hall are a number of small chapel halls, known as hor, which hold Buddha images (if unlocked), but which bear fine mirror mosaics depicting village life, the actions of kings and the gods. The Hohng Kep Mien is a garage for the ceremonial carriage used to cart the funeral urns of Lao kings. It is guarded by the heads of fierce nagas. The interior walls are again ablaze with mirror shard mosaic, whilst the front gable is resplendent in red and gold reliefs. Stopping to buy postcards and stamps at a stall in the grounds, we left va the Elephant gate to walk down to the banks of the Nam Kanh river, where some of the fancier restaurants have taken over old villas.
Our choice for lunch was Bamboo Tree, where we chose a ‘tasting plate’ of 9 dishes was filling and excellent. The dishes included Louang Prabang Pork Sausage, fried water weed squares – like nori, a tasty Lao salad, delicious smoky eggplant sauce (Jiew Mark Khuea), minced chicken stuffed in lemongrass, dry pork fried in sesame seed, a stewed pork dish called Aw Lam (not Minuk’s favourite), Larb Kai (chicken), served with purple sticky rice. Desert was fresh mango and banana. We had one platter each! Yum. Total cost 192000 kip including drinks. We made a reservation for Monday lunch at ‘Tamarind’, a restaurant recommended by the staff at our hotel.
Back at the hotel, we moved into a 1st floor twin room at the rear of the hotel. Slightly more spacious, and a fresher bathroom. Nearer the hot water supply for Minuk. Very satisfactory. We get to try one of the more expensive balcony rooms on the 1st floor on Monday night.
After a rest in the room, I went for an expedition up Phousi Hill to join the other sunset junkies atop the hill at the stupa of That Chomsi. The crowds were more spectacular than the sunset, but there were nice views to be had over town. Entry to the hill was 20000 kip, and the climb up the steps was just as steep.
Looking for a lighter evening meal, we chose to walk through the busy Night Handcraft Market, in search of the narrow BBQ restaurant street. This proved to be impossibly crowded at what seemed like the best stalls, and rather hot and stuffy to boot. We reluctantly left the delicious odour of char-grilled meats, and chose a crepes and baguette stand. My baguette sandwich contained salad plus chicken, bacon and avocado, with fried onions, and was acceptable at 20000 kip, though Minuk’s crepe had an incongruously sweet crust and savoury filling (same price). Later we returned to Khemkhong View restaurant on the riverside to share a coconut and mango/sticky rice. Satisfied, it was off to bed after dropping off 2.5kg of washing (30000 kip)
Sunday 3 January
We woke to cloudy skies, with mist hanging low over the hills. Chose Ramen with egg for breakfast as a contrast to many days of American breakfast. Fruit was good too.
The previous day we had booked a morning tour to feed and ride elephants, and visit Tat Kuang Si (US$25), a well renowned waterfall about 35km south of town. Our pickup was at 8:30am, and we tootled around town collecting other passengers. Our happy crew included a gay couple with allergies from Denver, two quiet Americans, an older couple from Montreal, and the irrepressible Sunny Mutton from the Sunshine Coast. The ride out of town was through mixed agricultural land, and teak plantations.
We got to the Luang Prabang Elephant Camp (www.luangprabangelephantcamp.com) at about 10am. After some instruction about elephants (The elephants at the cam are ‘rescued’ from logging work, and have been nursed back to health, they only sleep 4 hours a day, and when they are not sleeping, they need to eat – 200 kg a day of sugar cane, banana leaves and trunks and rice, there are only about 1200 elephants in Laos – no longer a land of a million elephants).
We fed the elephants in their pens, some more enthusiastic than others for a feed. The powerful trunks rip a banana leaf out of a person’s hand. The manipulation of the food by the trunk is fascinating. Soon enough it was time for a ride (movement helps digestion it seems). Once aboard the howdah, the ride was gently rolling, and the view fine. Our elephant was a short and slow one called Kham Seng. She was pretty much remote controlled and knew the way along the 30 minute expedition. Our mahout was soon off her (all the elephants at the camp are female) shoulders and snapping photos like the very best of paparazzi. Soon enough it was time to hop off and, after a bit more feeding, back in the minivan for the drive up to the waterfall. A fun time though. Everyone left the camp with a smile on their face.
It was a shady walk up through the forest to the waterfalls. On the way, was the Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre (www.freethebears.org) where Asiatic Black Bears, liberated from poachers are housed, it seems permanently. If released, apparently, poachers would once more capture them, such is the demand for bear products. The bears it must be said, look pretty bored.
The sounds of falling water can be heard through the trees, and soon amazingly azure blue pools appear, fed by tumbling cascades. There are change rooms for prospective swimmers, but the cool air dissuades us from trying. The path winds further upstream, revealing more small pools and waterfalls, until a footbridge spans a final pool, above which is the main wall, cascading down from 25 metres or more. The rocks are stained white with calcium carbonate, and everyone is taking a selfie.
We enjoyed the view, and chose to walk back down the road to the car park, where the smell of roasting meat beckoned. Half a dozen or more vendors offered whole chicken, fish and pork, charcoal grilled, it turns out, to perfection. We chose one at random and selected the whole roasted river fish, plus a vegie stir fry and steamed rice. The fish was delicious – fresh, with that wonderful charcoal taste. Washed down with a coconut. And all for about 70000 kip. Tummies sated, we made the round of the souvenir stalls, before meeting back at the minivan. Our happy crew awaited, though our driver was late. A couple had braved the waters and pronounced them not too cold! We were back in Luang Prabang by 2pm. A rest break in our room was in order.
Come dusk, Minuk made a solo expedition to the Night Handcraft Market, and, unencumbered by negative vibes from unenthusiastic shoppers, cornered the market in silk scarves. At the same time, she was able to provide ‘lucky money’ to fortunate vendors.
For our evening meal, a change of pace. Steak with creamy pepper sauce and duck with merlot shallot sauce, with yummy chips at the Café Mekhong Fish. And actually, very acceptable (150000 kip with drinks).
Monday 4 January
We rose at sparrows fart to experience the traditional dawn Tak Bat in which monks parade along the streets and are given alms (sticky rice balls) by townsfolk. Thanon Sakkarin was dark and deserted when we arrived at 5:30am, save for a line of plastic stools on the north side of the street, some of them already with a matching basket of sticky rice. On the other side of the street, vendors were setting up stalls, and tourists arrived in dribs and drabs. Many of the donors are tourists (but from Japan or China, with the occasional Westerner unsure what to do). Finally, as the sky lightened marginally, the barefoot saffron parade began. Each donor gives each of the hundreds of monks a small rice ball. Unlucky last monk in line may go a bit hungry, as many donors run out, and leave the parade before in winds its way back to the monastery!
For us, it was back to Lankham for breakfast, then an expedition to the Royal Palace Museum, home of the Lao Royal family, such as it was. Between Phou Si and the Mekong, the early 20th Century building was the home of King Sisavang Vong, whose imposing statue stands within the compound.
The highlights of the interior are the Kings Reception Hall, whose walls are covered in faux-Gaugin murals depicting Lao life, and the ornate main throne room, whose deep red walls are covered in a plethora of mosaics in coloured mirror tiles. By contrast, the huge bedrooms of the King and Queen are desperately plain. In an outbuilding, the Kings collection of cars reflects his backers. A Citroen seems unloved compared with the grandeur of a pair of Lincoln Continentals. Though perhaps the King was falling from favour since the last car was an Edsel…
Also within the compound is Wat Ho Pha Bang, the most ornate structure by a country mile. The building houses the important Pha Bang Buddha image, from which the town has gained its name. The lower balustrades are crocodiles, and the upper ones multi-headed nagas. The façade is over the top gilding backed with green mirrored tiles. The portico which overhangs the entrance through which the rather nondescript statue can be seen swaps the green glass tiles for dark red. After our visit, we sat on benches at the base of Phou si Hill, watching the passing parade. Took the time to drop in to the tiny Wat Pahouak, whose interior contains some elaborate wall paintings. Then we walked down to the Nam Khan riverside in search of lunch booked prevously.
Lunch at Tamarind followed and was very good indeed. This was not a run of the mill restaurant, the cooking uses local ingredients, and uses them flavourfully and inventively. Our choices were:
- Five Tastes Plate (including Luang Prabang Pork Sausage, Green Vegie Pickle, sweet dried buffalo meat and tasty Miang, which are parcels of vegies and eggplant paste, and very yummy)
- Stir Fried Frog with chili and basil
- Luang Prabang ‘stew’ (orlam gai)
- Drinks including Tamarind Cooler and Iced Cinnamon Bael Fruit Tea
- Pumpkin fiiled with coconut custard for desert.
After an afternoon rest, I went out to take photos of the Royal Palace Museum in the evening light. I was lucky enough to hear the orchestra practicing in the Phrolak-Phralam Theatre, and get some photos of a model, in national dress, who’d been brought into the grounds by a photographer. Minuk decided to reprise her exploits of the previous day at the Night Handcraft Market, returning this time with even more scarves, at cheaper prices.
Our final dinner in Luang Prabang was at the LPB Restaurant, on the Mekong riverside, where our choices were acceptable but not remarkable. We had spring rolls, morning glory with cashews and garlic and papaya salad (which was a bit too acidy for my liking). Had a final mango/sticky rice for desert.