Monday 28 December 2015
We were last in Chiang Mai in 1989, after our first (and still only) visit to India. At the time it was a rather sleepy contrast to the bustle of shopping mad Bangkok. The airport at lease seemed not much changed.
Taxi to Le Naview cost 150 Baht. We arrived at just before 11am. Some brief discussion about check in times (2pm was suggested) was resolved in our favour and we were soon able to freshen up in our clean and spacious room. There is a pool on the 3rd floor.
An afternoon stroll saw us check out eating options along Rachadamnoen Road. A cheap and cheerful meal at Is Good Kitchen – shrimp with chili and basil, crispy pork with black pepper sauce and a coconut came to just 150 baht.
Afterward looked over the buildings of Wat Phra Singh (20B), visiting the mail prayer hall (Wihan Luang), thronged with worshippers buying amulets and hanging offerings. An older wooden building (Wihan Lai Kham) in the grounds had fine frescoes on the walls and a famous Buddha image. Nearby another structure known as the Ubosot, with separate entrances for nuns and monks, contains a large wooden shrine guarded by wax models of venerable monks. After our exertions, we returned for an afternoon rest. Minuk took the opportunity to try out the pool.
In the evening we walked back down Rachadamnoen Road down to Wat Chedi Luang with its enormous ruined stupa behind the prayer hall. We passed the fine wooden Wihan of Wat Pan Tao en route just as it was closing up. Afterwards we ate at at Rachadamnoen Pad Thai. A very nice meal cost 355 Baht (Green curry with roti, fish cakes and deliciously smoky flavoured stir fried morning glory). The cooking was really good, a step up from the more pungent peasant style of lunch. The green curry soup was particularly good. Walked back to Le Naview, and were soon to bed. After the long travelling day, we were both in need of an early night.
Tuesday 29 December
Both of us slept well after an early night. After leisurely breakfast (substantial American breakfast included in accommodation cost) on the terrace, we set out for a stroll in the relative cool of the morning. This time we walked along the alley just north of Rachadamnoen Road, heading for the main square where the statue of the ‘Three Kings’ (King Mengrai, the founder of Chiang Mai; his contemporary and reportedly good friend King Ramkamhaeng of Sukothai; and King Ngam Muang of Payao) stands in front of the Chiang Mai Cultural Centre.
In the Cultural Centre, we enjoyed a free exhibition of prints from glass plate negatives made by John Thompson in the 1860s. The photographer had privileged access to Thai Royalty and many of the pictures show the lives of the family and their staff and retainers. Outside the cultural centre, we found a fascinating tree, with cannonball like fruit growing from its trunk, and elaborate and contorted flowers. Dr Google says it is indeed a ‘cannonball tree’.
Afterward we walked down to revisit Wat Pan Tao (impressive peacock guardian above the entrance) and a bamboo grove hung with lanterns. Took a drink break (mango for me, coconut for Minuk), before revisiting Wat Chedi Luang. This time we were able to view the elephant guardians on the 2nd terrace of the stupa. There were occasional pleasant breezes which could be enjoyed in the shade, but it was now much warmer.
It was nearing lunch time, so we walked to the south gate of the city (Chaing Mai Gate), where according to a blogger Minuk had read, street food was to be found. Sadly, none was in evidence, so we strolled back, stopping at Buathip, which distinguished itself with misted water AC. The food was good, and cheap (195 Baht). We shared a Khao Soi (the signature dish of Chiang Mai), and Kaeng Hung Lay (pork curry with ginger and garlic). A big Chang beer was refreshing, whilst Minuk once again chose the young coconut. We were both hot by the time we walked back to Le Naview to settle in for an afternoon rest.
We were last in Chiang Mai in 1989, after our first (and still only) visit to India. At the time it was a rather sleepy contrast to the bustle of shopping mad Bangkok. The airport at lease seemed not much changed.
Taxi to Le Naview cost 150 Baht. We arrived at just before 11am. Some brief discussion about check in times (2pm was suggested) was resolved in our favour and we were soon able to freshen up in our clean and spacious room. There is a pool on the 3rd floor.
An afternoon stroll saw us check out eating options along Rachadamnoen Road. A cheap and cheerful meal at Is Good Kitchen – shrimp with chili and basil, crispy pork with black pepper sauce and a coconut came to just 150 baht.
Afterward looked over the buildings of Wat Phra Singh (20B), visiting the mail prayer hall (Wihan Luang), thronged with worshippers buying amulets and hanging offerings. An older wooden building (Wihan Lai Kham) in the grounds had fine frescoes on the walls and a famous Buddha image. Nearby another structure known as the Ubosot, with separate entrances for nuns and monks, contains a large wooden shrine guarded by wax models of venerable monks. After our exertions, we returned for an afternoon rest. Minuk took the opportunity to try out the pool.
In the evening we walked back down Rachadamnoen Road down to Wat Chedi Luang with its enormous ruined stupa behind the prayer hall. We passed the fine wooden Wihan of Wat Pan Tao en route just as it was closing up. Afterwards we ate at at Rachadamnoen Pad Thai. A very nice meal cost 355 Baht (Green curry with roti, fish cakes and deliciously smoky flavoured stir fried morning glory). The cooking was really good, a step up from the more pungent peasant style of lunch. The green curry soup was particularly good. Walked back to Le Naview, and were soon to bed. After the long travelling day, we were both in need of an early night.
Tuesday 29 December
Both of us slept well after an early night. After leisurely breakfast (substantial American breakfast included in accommodation cost) on the terrace, we set out for a stroll in the relative cool of the morning. This time we walked along the alley just north of Rachadamnoen Road, heading for the main square where the statue of the ‘Three Kings’ (King Mengrai, the founder of Chiang Mai; his contemporary and reportedly good friend King Ramkamhaeng of Sukothai; and King Ngam Muang of Payao) stands in front of the Chiang Mai Cultural Centre.
In the Cultural Centre, we enjoyed a free exhibition of prints from glass plate negatives made by John Thompson in the 1860s. The photographer had privileged access to Thai Royalty and many of the pictures show the lives of the family and their staff and retainers. Outside the cultural centre, we found a fascinating tree, with cannonball like fruit growing from its trunk, and elaborate and contorted flowers. Dr Google says it is indeed a ‘cannonball tree’.
Afterward we walked down to revisit Wat Pan Tao (impressive peacock guardian above the entrance) and a bamboo grove hung with lanterns. Took a drink break (mango for me, coconut for Minuk), before revisiting Wat Chedi Luang. This time we were able to view the elephant guardians on the 2nd terrace of the stupa. There were occasional pleasant breezes which could be enjoyed in the shade, but it was now much warmer.
It was nearing lunch time, so we walked to the south gate of the city (Chaing Mai Gate), where according to a blogger Minuk had read, street food was to be found. Sadly, none was in evidence, so we strolled back, stopping at Buathip, which distinguished itself with misted water AC. The food was good, and cheap (195 Baht). We shared a Khao Soi (the signature dish of Chiang Mai), and Kaeng Hung Lay (pork curry with ginger and garlic). A big Chang beer was refreshing, whilst Minuk once again chose the young coconut. We were both hot by the time we walked back to Le Naview to settle in for an afternoon rest.