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Thursday 31 December
Our alarm woke us to a pink sunrise over the Mekong River. Breakfast was very acceptable too, consisting of a buffet with Asian dishes in addition to the ubiquitous American Breakfast.
Our pickup to the border was punctual, waiting for us as we checked out at 7:30am. We were through Thai immigration by 7:45am, but there was a wait for the bus across the Friendship Bridge to Laos (which cost 20 Baht each, plus extra for luggage – 70 Baht in the end). This for a 5 minute ride to the Lao Immigration and Customs Station. Our contact, San was already waiting for us there, and had partially filled out our visa application forms. We completed these, and were first in line to submit the papers. Unfortunately, the 2nd window, where passports were collected, and the visa fee paid was closed. And when it did open at 8:00am, there was no action. Then, finally, a passport was shown, and the lucky owner paid up and left. This happened about 30 times before we finally hit the jackpot just before 9:00am. During the wait, Minuk had changed money into Lao kip, so we were quickly aboard a minivan headed to Huay Xai, where we were to collect the other 4 people on our cruise. It turned out that they were already aboard, so we headed for the boat harbour to join them.
Our slowboat which was to be our transport of the next two days was spotless, with comfortable seats and polished wood floors. As there were only 6 passengers, we fairly rattled about. We talked most frequently with Korda, a farmer from Sweden, and his wife, a vet, and a very keen photographer. Emma from England, and Kelley from the Netherlands were both solo travellers, and kept more to themselves. Our route took us back past Chiang Khong (where the fancy Laos Pandaw was still moored) and under the Friendship Bridge, making our way south-eastward along the Thai-Lao border.
The river flows between steep banks. White sandy beaches alternate with rocky outcrops. Forested hills rise to either side. Often, jagged reefs of rock spear out into the stream, making navigation tricky for the driver. Or if not rocks, then shifting sandbars. The river bends north, then swings south and we leave Thailand behind, sailing through the mountains of Laos. Longtail speedboats periodically zoom by us, but the only other traffic is the narrow wooden craft of local fishermen, put-putting along to collect their nets and snares.
We stop briefly whilst the boats papers are checked, and later we moor and visit a village settled by Hmong people, moved from their highland opium farms to the lowlands. This is a poor dusty little village, with the most basic of houses. Children try to sell woven wristbands to earn a few kip. The people have a few cows and pigs, and chickens wander along the lanes. In a courtyard, beans and grain are being dried in the sun.
Back on the slowboat, a tasty lunch is served (fish in banana leaf, and garlicky fried chicken the best dishes). Beer can be bought to wash it down. The afternoon passes lazily as we all watch the landscape pass us by, observing the slow rhythms of life on the water.
Civilization reappears with road construction on the northern banks. A dam is planned on these stretches of the river, and so the days of trips like these might be numbered. Soon we passed under a new Friendship bridge, and are in Pakbeng our overnight stop, a one street town on the northern bank of the river.
We are greeted with a refreshing lime drink on arrival at the Mekong Riverside Lodge. A problem with our room (poky, no balcony) was fortunately resolved to our satisfaction. Relaxed on the balcony as the sun went down. Ate dinner at the restaurant across the road (Khopchaideu) which served inoffensive Indian food at moderate prices.
Discovered that mattresses were VERY hard on our bed – no padding!, and that the town of Pakbeng celebrates the New Year with fire crackers and bad karaoke. After that died down, the rooster started up!
Friday 1 January
Not a good night’s sleep at all, with the trifecta of uncomfortable bed, loud music and a rooster. Breakfast (served at Khopchaideu) was uninspiring. From our balcony we were able to see a couple of elephants brought down to the far bank of the river for a morning bath. Checked out and toddled down to the slowboat dock to meet with San, who was a little under the weather after a New Year’s party with the boat family, and a few too many lao-laos.
The new day proceeded as had the last, though it was much cooler, with mostly overcast skies. Our morning stop was at Bor Model Village, where the houses (double level, solidly built of wood) were more substantial, and the village more prosperous than our stop the day before. There were similarities – kids (mostly girls) still tried to sell woven wristbands and gambolled through the streets during or stay. There was a big display of textiles for the perusal of the ardent shopper. Whilst the womenfolk engaged in commerce, those men who were present in town were gathered around a table, playing cards, and drinking beer (and had been doing so for some time considering the number of empty bottles under the table). Minuk chose and bought a cotton woven scarf for 50000 kip.
Back on the slowboat, lunch was served soon after we got underway once more. Standout dishes this time were the eggplant with chicken (but it was all about the eggplant), and the deep fried river fish. The afternoon drifted by and before we knew it the cliffs of the Pak Ou Buddha caves loomed up on the west bank of the Mekong, begging us to visit them. A big crowd of slowboats were gathered at the dock, and it was hustle and bustle once more as we joined many other pilgrims admiring the accumulated Buddha images placed in the lower cave (just a cleft in the limestone), and the upper cave (an altogether darker cave, reached by a 5 minute climb). Minuk elected to eschew the climb to the upper cave, missing the fine views across the river. The lower cave was a circus of selfie taking pilgrims, with the occasional serious worshipper struggling for any serenity.
From the caves, it was just an hour downstream to the slowboat harbour, about 10 km out of Luang Prabang. A minibus took us into town, and we farewelled our temporary companions of the past two days as they were dropped at their various guesthouses. Our room at the Lankham Riverside Hotel was rather small, and there was a persistent unpleasant smell in the bathroom, so we were able to negotiate a change of rooms later.
Meanwhile, it was time for dinner, which we took at a riverside restaurant just steps from our hotel. At the Khenkhong View restaurant we chose Luang Prabang style spicy fish soup (which was excellent), and Pad Thai beef, which was also of high quality. The meal came to 92000 kip with drinks. Afterward, we walked the cramped length of the handcrafts market which sets up nightly between the Royal Palace and Phou Si Hill. The range of wares is pretty varied, though of course, the same stuff repeats itself frequently. After a quick reconnaissance, back to hotel for bed
Our alarm woke us to a pink sunrise over the Mekong River. Breakfast was very acceptable too, consisting of a buffet with Asian dishes in addition to the ubiquitous American Breakfast.
Our pickup to the border was punctual, waiting for us as we checked out at 7:30am. We were through Thai immigration by 7:45am, but there was a wait for the bus across the Friendship Bridge to Laos (which cost 20 Baht each, plus extra for luggage – 70 Baht in the end). This for a 5 minute ride to the Lao Immigration and Customs Station. Our contact, San was already waiting for us there, and had partially filled out our visa application forms. We completed these, and were first in line to submit the papers. Unfortunately, the 2nd window, where passports were collected, and the visa fee paid was closed. And when it did open at 8:00am, there was no action. Then, finally, a passport was shown, and the lucky owner paid up and left. This happened about 30 times before we finally hit the jackpot just before 9:00am. During the wait, Minuk had changed money into Lao kip, so we were quickly aboard a minivan headed to Huay Xai, where we were to collect the other 4 people on our cruise. It turned out that they were already aboard, so we headed for the boat harbour to join them.
Our slowboat which was to be our transport of the next two days was spotless, with comfortable seats and polished wood floors. As there were only 6 passengers, we fairly rattled about. We talked most frequently with Korda, a farmer from Sweden, and his wife, a vet, and a very keen photographer. Emma from England, and Kelley from the Netherlands were both solo travellers, and kept more to themselves. Our route took us back past Chiang Khong (where the fancy Laos Pandaw was still moored) and under the Friendship Bridge, making our way south-eastward along the Thai-Lao border.
The river flows between steep banks. White sandy beaches alternate with rocky outcrops. Forested hills rise to either side. Often, jagged reefs of rock spear out into the stream, making navigation tricky for the driver. Or if not rocks, then shifting sandbars. The river bends north, then swings south and we leave Thailand behind, sailing through the mountains of Laos. Longtail speedboats periodically zoom by us, but the only other traffic is the narrow wooden craft of local fishermen, put-putting along to collect their nets and snares.
We stop briefly whilst the boats papers are checked, and later we moor and visit a village settled by Hmong people, moved from their highland opium farms to the lowlands. This is a poor dusty little village, with the most basic of houses. Children try to sell woven wristbands to earn a few kip. The people have a few cows and pigs, and chickens wander along the lanes. In a courtyard, beans and grain are being dried in the sun.
Back on the slowboat, a tasty lunch is served (fish in banana leaf, and garlicky fried chicken the best dishes). Beer can be bought to wash it down. The afternoon passes lazily as we all watch the landscape pass us by, observing the slow rhythms of life on the water.
Civilization reappears with road construction on the northern banks. A dam is planned on these stretches of the river, and so the days of trips like these might be numbered. Soon we passed under a new Friendship bridge, and are in Pakbeng our overnight stop, a one street town on the northern bank of the river.
We are greeted with a refreshing lime drink on arrival at the Mekong Riverside Lodge. A problem with our room (poky, no balcony) was fortunately resolved to our satisfaction. Relaxed on the balcony as the sun went down. Ate dinner at the restaurant across the road (Khopchaideu) which served inoffensive Indian food at moderate prices.
Discovered that mattresses were VERY hard on our bed – no padding!, and that the town of Pakbeng celebrates the New Year with fire crackers and bad karaoke. After that died down, the rooster started up!
Friday 1 January
Not a good night’s sleep at all, with the trifecta of uncomfortable bed, loud music and a rooster. Breakfast (served at Khopchaideu) was uninspiring. From our balcony we were able to see a couple of elephants brought down to the far bank of the river for a morning bath. Checked out and toddled down to the slowboat dock to meet with San, who was a little under the weather after a New Year’s party with the boat family, and a few too many lao-laos.
The new day proceeded as had the last, though it was much cooler, with mostly overcast skies. Our morning stop was at Bor Model Village, where the houses (double level, solidly built of wood) were more substantial, and the village more prosperous than our stop the day before. There were similarities – kids (mostly girls) still tried to sell woven wristbands and gambolled through the streets during or stay. There was a big display of textiles for the perusal of the ardent shopper. Whilst the womenfolk engaged in commerce, those men who were present in town were gathered around a table, playing cards, and drinking beer (and had been doing so for some time considering the number of empty bottles under the table). Minuk chose and bought a cotton woven scarf for 50000 kip.
Back on the slowboat, lunch was served soon after we got underway once more. Standout dishes this time were the eggplant with chicken (but it was all about the eggplant), and the deep fried river fish. The afternoon drifted by and before we knew it the cliffs of the Pak Ou Buddha caves loomed up on the west bank of the Mekong, begging us to visit them. A big crowd of slowboats were gathered at the dock, and it was hustle and bustle once more as we joined many other pilgrims admiring the accumulated Buddha images placed in the lower cave (just a cleft in the limestone), and the upper cave (an altogether darker cave, reached by a 5 minute climb). Minuk elected to eschew the climb to the upper cave, missing the fine views across the river. The lower cave was a circus of selfie taking pilgrims, with the occasional serious worshipper struggling for any serenity.
From the caves, it was just an hour downstream to the slowboat harbour, about 10 km out of Luang Prabang. A minibus took us into town, and we farewelled our temporary companions of the past two days as they were dropped at their various guesthouses. Our room at the Lankham Riverside Hotel was rather small, and there was a persistent unpleasant smell in the bathroom, so we were able to negotiate a change of rooms later.
Meanwhile, it was time for dinner, which we took at a riverside restaurant just steps from our hotel. At the Khenkhong View restaurant we chose Luang Prabang style spicy fish soup (which was excellent), and Pad Thai beef, which was also of high quality. The meal came to 92000 kip with drinks. Afterward, we walked the cramped length of the handcrafts market which sets up nightly between the Royal Palace and Phou Si Hill. The range of wares is pretty varied, though of course, the same stuff repeats itself frequently. After a quick reconnaissance, back to hotel for bed