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2 July
Taxi arrived in good time after we had breakfasted, finished packing and farewelled Ooq and Dita. A quick trip to the station, around the outside of the walled town. Train left on time just after 9am, and rattled along at up to 200kmh. Very impressive. Got a glimpse of cork trees on the way. Grumpy lady with duplicates of our seats wanted us to move. No dice lady. She eventually harangued others to move.
Rolled into Oriente station in Lisbon at 10:30. Very impressive Calatrava winged roof. Had a pastry and cappuccino at the café for snack before the next train departed. Had trouble with Minuk’s case. Handle won’t drop.
Uneventful 3 hour trip north (except for case problem, and the spot of luck which saw the conductor return my blue Lumix camera, which must have dropped from my camera bag whilst I was wrangling cases). The country is greener and more fertile, with rice fields, fpne plantations and orchards in evidence. We came to the coast just before reaching Porto, and had grand views of the city from the train on the way into both Campanha and then (after a change of train) Sao Bento stations.
Sao Bento station’s entry hall is festooned with azulejo panels on either end. Very impressive. Our taxi to the apartment on Rua do Comercio de Porto cost 8 euros, and we got a foretaste of the very steep streets.
Apartment very modern and well resourced. Carlos and Christina very fine hosts (even if they think a hop-on-hop off bus is a good idea!). Major drawback the 4 flights of stairs. Supplies were hard to come by, local convenience stores and bakeries nearby had pretty slim pickings. Eventually I walked a few hundred meters west along the riverside to find a suitable supermarket at Masserelos. Brought home my goodies, including a Tawny port.
Dinner at Vime, after a look at the very tourist oriented waterfront at Ribeira as the sun set. Dinner included Duck Rice (excellent) and turkey steaks with cream mushroom sauce (which tasted as one would expect). Came to just 21 euro. And back to the apartment
Sunday 3 July
A hot day. Morning sightseeing included a walk up from the riverside to the centre via Palacio da Bolso. The guided tour is 8 euro. Overprice for the content, the rooms of the old chamber of commerce are suitable ostentatious, reflecting the position in which the 1% have historically seen themselves. The commentary on the tour banal and almost inaudible from echoes. The highlight the elaborately decorated ‘Arabic room’.
Walked up the pedestrianised Rua das Flores, to reach Sao Bento Station, at the centre of town. Stopped for an ice cream en route. Many shops closed on a Sunday made for a less bustling atmosphere. At Sao Bento, we enjoyed free air-conditioning as cool air rose from grates in the street. Quite a relief in the heat of the day.
Made our way paste the azulejo festooned façade of San Antonio church , into the main square of the city. Grand banking houses line it, with the city council chambers at the far end, guarded by an equestrian statue of a forgotten notable. To the west, Clerigos tower stands atop a steep hill. Trams occasionally clatter down it (sadly outnumbered by tourist buses). We spy the ‘Imperial McDonalds’, a structure more unsuited to the provender of that vendor it would be hard to imagine. One can have the same poisonous but economically priced crap food in what are at least pleasant surroundings, with art nouveau stained glass above the counter!
We were at this time beginning to feel the pangs of hunger, so sought out the iconic barbeque chicken restaurant ‘Pedros dos Frangos’, which put on a pretty good spread, though not quite to the yumminess standard of the café in Evora.
Cruise on the Douro – 6 bridges. 12.5 euro for 50 minutes. A different perspective on the city.
Evening walk along the river for me, crossing the river by Dom Luis I bridge at the lower level. The evening lights are spectacular
Monday 4 July
A morning walk whilst Minuk rested. Began with a look at San Francisco Church. The entry fee a bit excessive at 4 euro. The exterior of the church is rather plain gothic style, though the gable crowning statues and add some style. The interior belies the vows of poverty of the Franciscans. The rococo wood carvings which layer the interior are rich and extravagant. Martyred saints vie with the Virgin Mary, all dripping with gold leaf. Was not informed of the ‘no photo’ rule until after I bought the ticket, so ignored it.
Walked up to the town centre, taking a route to via the steep streets to the west of Rua do Comercia. Bought ‘Andante’ tickets en route (added 3 rides each to them). Ended up in the pleasant Jardim de Cordoaria, where laughing bronzes abounded, and the plane trees were shady. And only a slight infestation of tour groups, marching in lockstep to the demands of their leader. ‘Listen to me!!’ Poor fools. Decided to give Ciergos tower a miss for the time being (wrong direction of light), likewise the Lello bookstore, on account of crowds. This area of town is close to the University, and is lined with shops showing art deco and art nouveau designs.
Instead, made my way up to the Se Cathedral, past Sao Bento station. The interior dominated by massive columns. Very interesting serpent balustrade at the entrance.
Walked across the bridge at the high level with very fine views. Spent some time in Jardim de morro
Lunch at the bar at No 33 Rua do Comercia. Tasty meal of fried sardines and tripe Porto style were reasonably priced, and well cooked
Bus 901 to Graham Port Lodge. Chose two sets of tastings, and shared. Guide was knowledgeable, gave just enough information, and seemed able to answer questions from
The first three were ‘Ruby’ ports, the most fruity and least matured. The flavour quickly dissipates, leaving little aftertaste. The Quinta dos Malvedos was more distinctive, with a slightly carbolic aftertaste. By contrast, the Tawny ports have a lingering aftertaste, with more nutty or toffee flavours showing up in the 10 and 20 YO Tawnys. The pours were quite generous, probably nearly 100mL per wine. Given the 19% plus alcohol content, a slight buz was felt at the end of the tasting. Succesfully rode bus 901 back home, with a brief stop in Vila Nova de Gaia for a different view of Porto.
Dinner in house. Mussels with garlic and pasta
5 July
Lazy morning in, then a stroll up the Rua das Flores, stopping off at souvenir shops to secure tile fridge magnets as oleh-oleh. Made it to Rua Santa Catertina, the pedestrianised shopping street. First stop was Majestic Café, with its art nouveau woodwork, mirrors, light fittings and windows. Outside, a ‘listen-to-me’ explained to its charges that the reason only tourists dined there was that prices are double the normal for Porto. This is true. Still, having an overpriced coffee, Pateis de Belem, and an Afrogato for 12.5 euro in the dining area is infinitely preferable to being harangued all day by a know-it-all tour guide, so I guess it is horses for courses!
After 40 minutes of so we moved on to the shopping street, which was surprisingly local oriented. Even the Santa Caterina Mall had a plethora of local shops amongst the identikit international brands. The food court also had some local colour to combat the ubiquitous Maccas and Pizza Hut.
Santa Caterina Church with its wall of Azulejos, telling the Sta Caterina story, and that of St Francis for good measure. The Balhao vegetable, fish and flower market, and antique grocery shops on Rua Formosa.
Lunch at a café on Rua Formosa. Tried the Francesinha, a local culinary creation which consists of a cheese ham and beef toastie, with an egg and a spicy sauce, with piles of potato chips. Interesting. The Porto version of the Pie Floater. Plenty to eat, and quite cheap. Minuk’s battered fish with Russian salad was better, as was the rich pudding. Bill was only 15 euro. After lunch. Minuk went shopping, and I went sightseeing, heading for the Clerigos Tower. Waited an interminable time for the historic No 22 tram, only to be refused entry, despite the transport website insisting that my Andante card should have been accepted. I did not even get to try to scan it, so cannot attest to the correctness or otherwise of the assertion of the rude staff.
Only a short walk in any case to the Clerigos tower. The view from the tower (3 euro entry) is expansive, but does not provide as much view of the river as I’d hoped. Much better view from top of Dom Luis I bridge, for free and with less climbing. The Clerigos church is elegant, with a lofty elliptical dome. The threatened thunderstorm arrived, but with only light rain which ended swiftly. Walked back to the apartment to find Minuk lately arrived from shopping, having scored shoes and a shirt.
We ate in with snacks and leftovers, the francesinha still keeping me very full (though did have some of Minuk’s lunch Russian Salad, which she had successfully doggie bagged.
Taxi arrived in good time after we had breakfasted, finished packing and farewelled Ooq and Dita. A quick trip to the station, around the outside of the walled town. Train left on time just after 9am, and rattled along at up to 200kmh. Very impressive. Got a glimpse of cork trees on the way. Grumpy lady with duplicates of our seats wanted us to move. No dice lady. She eventually harangued others to move.
Rolled into Oriente station in Lisbon at 10:30. Very impressive Calatrava winged roof. Had a pastry and cappuccino at the café for snack before the next train departed. Had trouble with Minuk’s case. Handle won’t drop.
Uneventful 3 hour trip north (except for case problem, and the spot of luck which saw the conductor return my blue Lumix camera, which must have dropped from my camera bag whilst I was wrangling cases). The country is greener and more fertile, with rice fields, fpne plantations and orchards in evidence. We came to the coast just before reaching Porto, and had grand views of the city from the train on the way into both Campanha and then (after a change of train) Sao Bento stations.
Sao Bento station’s entry hall is festooned with azulejo panels on either end. Very impressive. Our taxi to the apartment on Rua do Comercio de Porto cost 8 euros, and we got a foretaste of the very steep streets.
Apartment very modern and well resourced. Carlos and Christina very fine hosts (even if they think a hop-on-hop off bus is a good idea!). Major drawback the 4 flights of stairs. Supplies were hard to come by, local convenience stores and bakeries nearby had pretty slim pickings. Eventually I walked a few hundred meters west along the riverside to find a suitable supermarket at Masserelos. Brought home my goodies, including a Tawny port.
Dinner at Vime, after a look at the very tourist oriented waterfront at Ribeira as the sun set. Dinner included Duck Rice (excellent) and turkey steaks with cream mushroom sauce (which tasted as one would expect). Came to just 21 euro. And back to the apartment
Sunday 3 July
A hot day. Morning sightseeing included a walk up from the riverside to the centre via Palacio da Bolso. The guided tour is 8 euro. Overprice for the content, the rooms of the old chamber of commerce are suitable ostentatious, reflecting the position in which the 1% have historically seen themselves. The commentary on the tour banal and almost inaudible from echoes. The highlight the elaborately decorated ‘Arabic room’.
Walked up the pedestrianised Rua das Flores, to reach Sao Bento Station, at the centre of town. Stopped for an ice cream en route. Many shops closed on a Sunday made for a less bustling atmosphere. At Sao Bento, we enjoyed free air-conditioning as cool air rose from grates in the street. Quite a relief in the heat of the day.
Made our way paste the azulejo festooned façade of San Antonio church , into the main square of the city. Grand banking houses line it, with the city council chambers at the far end, guarded by an equestrian statue of a forgotten notable. To the west, Clerigos tower stands atop a steep hill. Trams occasionally clatter down it (sadly outnumbered by tourist buses). We spy the ‘Imperial McDonalds’, a structure more unsuited to the provender of that vendor it would be hard to imagine. One can have the same poisonous but economically priced crap food in what are at least pleasant surroundings, with art nouveau stained glass above the counter!
We were at this time beginning to feel the pangs of hunger, so sought out the iconic barbeque chicken restaurant ‘Pedros dos Frangos’, which put on a pretty good spread, though not quite to the yumminess standard of the café in Evora.
Cruise on the Douro – 6 bridges. 12.5 euro for 50 minutes. A different perspective on the city.
Evening walk along the river for me, crossing the river by Dom Luis I bridge at the lower level. The evening lights are spectacular
Monday 4 July
A morning walk whilst Minuk rested. Began with a look at San Francisco Church. The entry fee a bit excessive at 4 euro. The exterior of the church is rather plain gothic style, though the gable crowning statues and add some style. The interior belies the vows of poverty of the Franciscans. The rococo wood carvings which layer the interior are rich and extravagant. Martyred saints vie with the Virgin Mary, all dripping with gold leaf. Was not informed of the ‘no photo’ rule until after I bought the ticket, so ignored it.
Walked up to the town centre, taking a route to via the steep streets to the west of Rua do Comercia. Bought ‘Andante’ tickets en route (added 3 rides each to them). Ended up in the pleasant Jardim de Cordoaria, where laughing bronzes abounded, and the plane trees were shady. And only a slight infestation of tour groups, marching in lockstep to the demands of their leader. ‘Listen to me!!’ Poor fools. Decided to give Ciergos tower a miss for the time being (wrong direction of light), likewise the Lello bookstore, on account of crowds. This area of town is close to the University, and is lined with shops showing art deco and art nouveau designs.
Instead, made my way up to the Se Cathedral, past Sao Bento station. The interior dominated by massive columns. Very interesting serpent balustrade at the entrance.
Walked across the bridge at the high level with very fine views. Spent some time in Jardim de morro
Lunch at the bar at No 33 Rua do Comercia. Tasty meal of fried sardines and tripe Porto style were reasonably priced, and well cooked
Bus 901 to Graham Port Lodge. Chose two sets of tastings, and shared. Guide was knowledgeable, gave just enough information, and seemed able to answer questions from
- 2011 Late Bottled Vintage Port
- 2003 ‘Warre’ LBV Port
- 2004 Quinta dos Malvedos, bottle matured vintage port
- Graham’s ‘The Tawny’ (8YO)
- Graham’s 10 YO Tawny
- Graham’s 20 YO Tawny
The first three were ‘Ruby’ ports, the most fruity and least matured. The flavour quickly dissipates, leaving little aftertaste. The Quinta dos Malvedos was more distinctive, with a slightly carbolic aftertaste. By contrast, the Tawny ports have a lingering aftertaste, with more nutty or toffee flavours showing up in the 10 and 20 YO Tawnys. The pours were quite generous, probably nearly 100mL per wine. Given the 19% plus alcohol content, a slight buz was felt at the end of the tasting. Succesfully rode bus 901 back home, with a brief stop in Vila Nova de Gaia for a different view of Porto.
Dinner in house. Mussels with garlic and pasta
5 July
Lazy morning in, then a stroll up the Rua das Flores, stopping off at souvenir shops to secure tile fridge magnets as oleh-oleh. Made it to Rua Santa Catertina, the pedestrianised shopping street. First stop was Majestic Café, with its art nouveau woodwork, mirrors, light fittings and windows. Outside, a ‘listen-to-me’ explained to its charges that the reason only tourists dined there was that prices are double the normal for Porto. This is true. Still, having an overpriced coffee, Pateis de Belem, and an Afrogato for 12.5 euro in the dining area is infinitely preferable to being harangued all day by a know-it-all tour guide, so I guess it is horses for courses!
After 40 minutes of so we moved on to the shopping street, which was surprisingly local oriented. Even the Santa Caterina Mall had a plethora of local shops amongst the identikit international brands. The food court also had some local colour to combat the ubiquitous Maccas and Pizza Hut.
Santa Caterina Church with its wall of Azulejos, telling the Sta Caterina story, and that of St Francis for good measure. The Balhao vegetable, fish and flower market, and antique grocery shops on Rua Formosa.
Lunch at a café on Rua Formosa. Tried the Francesinha, a local culinary creation which consists of a cheese ham and beef toastie, with an egg and a spicy sauce, with piles of potato chips. Interesting. The Porto version of the Pie Floater. Plenty to eat, and quite cheap. Minuk’s battered fish with Russian salad was better, as was the rich pudding. Bill was only 15 euro. After lunch. Minuk went shopping, and I went sightseeing, heading for the Clerigos Tower. Waited an interminable time for the historic No 22 tram, only to be refused entry, despite the transport website insisting that my Andante card should have been accepted. I did not even get to try to scan it, so cannot attest to the correctness or otherwise of the assertion of the rude staff.
Only a short walk in any case to the Clerigos tower. The view from the tower (3 euro entry) is expansive, but does not provide as much view of the river as I’d hoped. Much better view from top of Dom Luis I bridge, for free and with less climbing. The Clerigos church is elegant, with a lofty elliptical dome. The threatened thunderstorm arrived, but with only light rain which ended swiftly. Walked back to the apartment to find Minuk lately arrived from shopping, having scored shoes and a shirt.
We ate in with snacks and leftovers, the francesinha still keeping me very full (though did have some of Minuk’s lunch Russian Salad, which she had successfully doggie bagged.