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Friday 24 June
Taxi to airport 25 euro. Uneventful flights, Big airport in Madrid. View of Jeronimos Monastery on approach along the river.
Airport close to town, so taxi fare moderate (15 euro inc 50% surcharge for luggage!). Grumpy driver. Our house is in the castle district of Mouraria, surrounded by up and down lanes, stairways and cobbled streets with pictures of residents on some of the homes.
Lisbon is much less kempt than either Barcelona or Valencia. The buildings are more rundown, the pavements are not so spotless, and the graffiti is more invasive.
Lunch at a restaurant (O Almeida) near the house. Garlic squid, and ‘escalope’ (not scallops, sadly), with peri-peri sauce. Home made chips very nice. Just too late for freshly grilled sardines. A little overpriced for 25 euro.
Got supplies at the big supermarket at the foot of the elevator up to the castle.
Walked around the castle, checking out the iconic tram 28 and the Mirador Sta Lucia (looking a bit decrepit compared to 34 years ago), thence past the Roman Theatre excavation and so back home. A 2.5 km loop. Traffic is a bit mad, particularly with the steep and narrow streets in this district.
At night, loud techno music from the bars downhill fortunately did not prevent sleep.
Saturday 25 June
Morning walk to Baixo district, the commercial centre. First destination was the Praça do Comércio, where the views were impeded by ugly hoardings and stands for live-screens to show the Euro soccer championship matches which are still continuing. In particular, the equestrian statue of King José I, with its supporting elephants was almost completely surrounded. The tall Arco do Rua Augusta leads back into Baixa, The Baixa district is the commercial centre of the city, where all the banks, major offices and the like are headquartered. There are many quirky shops, including the iconic ‘tinned fish’ stores, apparently just the thing for locals. It is also tourist central, with the midway of the pedestrianised Rua Augusta crammed with identkit restaurants.
Booked afternoon tour of Nucleo Archeologica because it was the only time available.
Lunch at Za de Mouraria, as recommended by Sandra our Airbnb host. Today’s dish on offer was bacalau asado (grilled salt cod), with chick peas, potatoes and lots of olive oil.
Afternoon recuperation followed by tour at 3pm of Nucleo Archeologico, the fermented fish pits under the Millenium Bank showing a little of the history buried under the city. OK short tour, though not astounding.
Evening walk up to the miradors of Graça district including Miradouro de Graça and later Miradouro de Senhora de Monte (the highest, and with a view to our balcony).
Sunday 26 June
Early walk to Praça da Figueira to catch the No 15 tram to Mosterio dos Jeronimos, our on the banks of the Tejo River. The morning was cool, and an empty No 28 tram rolled up to the stop as we arrived. A No 15 tram (a new modern one, not the vintage wooden ones which run the steep hilly routes), was waiting at the stop, but driverless. Soon enough, the driver came along and we were on our way, whizzing along the streets at a great rate of knots. Passed the Praça do Comércio, still festooned in ugly beer company advertising, and along the riverside, passing Cais do Sodré, and trundling under the Ponte de 25 Abril at Alcantara, before rolling to a stop near Belem.
First port of call was the famous Pastéis de Belém, for second breakfast. When we arrived at about 9am, the place was busy but not ridiculously crowded. We found a table in the azulejo tiled restaurant area, electing not to stand in line at the counter, where the crowds seemed to be larger. We were served in double quick time, and enjoyed 4 little custard tarts, fresh and still warm from the oven. The best practice is to sprinkle some cinnamon powder and icing sugar over the tarts before eating. They melt in the mouth, and the pastry is crisp and flaky. Yum.
There was a long queue to get into Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, and guidebook reports of free entry on Sunday morning were sadly astray (first Sunday each month).So we paid our 10 euro entry fee, and entered. The building g commemorates Vasco da Gama’s voyage of discovery, the decoration, in warm yellow stone is intricate and beautiful. It is all about the magnificent cloister, each column of which is differently carved. Coils of rope, sea monsters, coral, and other sea motifs are redolent the age of maritime exploration. The refectory which is entered from the lower floor has beautiful vaulting and azulejo tile decoration on the walls depicting the Biblical story of Joseph. After exiting through the gift shop, we made a brief turn through the attached church, where Vasco Da Gama’s tomb lies. The high vaulting is also impressive, but the darker in colour, perhaps from centuries of candle smoke.We took our lunch at Pao Pao Queijo Quiejo, choosing sardine baguettes, with chips and salad. A bargain too, at less than 10 euro the lot. The seating area upstairs was cool and comfortable. Free wifi too.After lunch we decided to beat the heat and visit the nearby Museu Coleção Berardo, housed in its starkly austere building, where modern art, from the familiar (Picasso, Warhol, Mondrian, Lichtenstein etc rub shoulders with lesser known artists, spanning the movements of the 20th century from Dadaism to post-minimalism. The supremely wanky descriptive passages describing the purpose of the collection are alone worth the price of admission. (Oh, alright, it is free, but they really are a hoot). I left Minuk resting her feet and legs in the museum foyer before completing a very quick circuit from MCB to the waterside Torre de Belem, and around the yacht harbours to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, standing out over the Tejo River like the prow of a Portuguese Caravel, Henry the Navigator of course, leading the way. Thence across multi-coloured marble compass rose and ‘Mappa Mundi’ and back to the MCB.
It was stuffy and hot on the tram back to the city, and at Cais do Sodré all passengers were asked to disembark. We waited for the next tram, but the next three did the same thing. Gave up and took the metro back to Rossio station, and our start point for the day. A hot trudge via Pingo Doce for further supplies and back to the lovely coolness of our apartment. Cool showers, beer on the terrace where after 7pm the breezes were pleasantly cool, and panfried pork steaks for dinner.
Monday 27 JuneStarted early at Matrim Montiz, to catch an empty No 28 rattling yellow tram up through the steep streets of Graça, heading for the castle district and the view over the red rooftops of the Alfama. Sadly, chose the wrong side of the tram (note, choose left hand side = middle of road). The ride back down to Baixa past the battlemented fortress Se cathedral was particularly steep. The tram was pretty full by this time, but folk began to hop of as we barrelled through Chiado and Santa Catarina, going up hill and down dale along desperately narrow streets.Passed the white colonnaded Parliament buildings and disembarked at Basilica Estrella, opposite the quiet shady Jardim Estrella, where we watched the ducks and ducklings in a rather grotty looking pond, before heading back to the centre via an alternate, though less hilly route on tram No 25. We were dropped in Praça do Comércio, where the cleanup from beer company sponsored vandalism was not much advanced. Checked out the ‘Lisbon Story Centre’, but found that it seemed uninspiring so returned to our house, stopping by Pingo Doce to pick up extra supplies pending Ooq and Dita’s arrival.They were late. But had come by metro and on foot! Good work if ill advised in the heat of the day. We ate roast chicken (a bargain at 4.49 Euro inc rice!) for a late dinner.After a rest, walked an evening circuit of the castle, as the breezes blew cooler. Used the Elevador Castelo, near Pingo Doce, which turned out to be free, to avoid climbing of stairs. Wound our way to Miradouro Santa Luzia, then down to the Se Cathedral, where the yellow trams provided photo opportunities. Back to the house, via Pingo Doce, where we procured the makings of seafood pasta, with a very moderately priced pack of frozen seafood. Very delightful. A credit to Minuk’s cooking prowess.
Tuesday 28 June
Morning walk to São Domingos church, its blackened and pattered columns testament to survival of earthquake and fire. From there, over to Praça dos Restauradores, replete with memorial column to the venerable Elevador Gloria, which we rode up to Chiado. Took oque church, admiring the extravagant design, but elected to pass on the Azulejo Museum. At Largo del Carmo, stopped for refreshments under the Jacaranda trees, then visited the ruined church, its nave naked to the sky, the remaining vaults like skeletal. The apse has been rebuilt, housing a small archeological museum.
We headed for Baixa-Chiado metro station to recharge metro cards. Down 5 escalators into the depths! Surfacing, a quick look around Largo do Chiado (Tram 28 is in view), before, with stomachs rumbling, we take the trip down the Santa Justa Elevator, the wrought iron work of Eifel’s student a treat. Elevator operation quite a jolly chap. Hot down in Baixa with little breeze, and the pavement restaurants uninspiring and breathless. We found respite in Vincenzo’s, whose indoor area was quiet and cool. Ate our fill of grilled sardines, then waddled home.
Evening off to Cais do Sodre,by metro for a fado performance at Povo. Turns out that Povo is on the ‘Pink’ street (paint colour, not sexual orientation!). Our reserved table is in the back of the small room. Drinks and snacks are ordered. I order a caipirinha and fusion wraps – not bad if small. Fortunately I can have some of Minuk’s toast, which is very generous. The show is in short sets of 4 to 6 songs. There are 2 guitarists, one on a conventional guitar, the other on the ‘guitarra’, the instrument of fado. The singer explains the concept of fado, and describes what each song is about. In summary, the songs are about sadness, about longing, and about missing the sadness and longing. We stayed for two sets, but left before the midnight hour.
Taxi to airport 25 euro. Uneventful flights, Big airport in Madrid. View of Jeronimos Monastery on approach along the river.
Airport close to town, so taxi fare moderate (15 euro inc 50% surcharge for luggage!). Grumpy driver. Our house is in the castle district of Mouraria, surrounded by up and down lanes, stairways and cobbled streets with pictures of residents on some of the homes.
Lisbon is much less kempt than either Barcelona or Valencia. The buildings are more rundown, the pavements are not so spotless, and the graffiti is more invasive.
Lunch at a restaurant (O Almeida) near the house. Garlic squid, and ‘escalope’ (not scallops, sadly), with peri-peri sauce. Home made chips very nice. Just too late for freshly grilled sardines. A little overpriced for 25 euro.
Got supplies at the big supermarket at the foot of the elevator up to the castle.
Walked around the castle, checking out the iconic tram 28 and the Mirador Sta Lucia (looking a bit decrepit compared to 34 years ago), thence past the Roman Theatre excavation and so back home. A 2.5 km loop. Traffic is a bit mad, particularly with the steep and narrow streets in this district.
At night, loud techno music from the bars downhill fortunately did not prevent sleep.
Saturday 25 June
Morning walk to Baixo district, the commercial centre. First destination was the Praça do Comércio, where the views were impeded by ugly hoardings and stands for live-screens to show the Euro soccer championship matches which are still continuing. In particular, the equestrian statue of King José I, with its supporting elephants was almost completely surrounded. The tall Arco do Rua Augusta leads back into Baixa, The Baixa district is the commercial centre of the city, where all the banks, major offices and the like are headquartered. There are many quirky shops, including the iconic ‘tinned fish’ stores, apparently just the thing for locals. It is also tourist central, with the midway of the pedestrianised Rua Augusta crammed with identkit restaurants.
Booked afternoon tour of Nucleo Archeologica because it was the only time available.
Lunch at Za de Mouraria, as recommended by Sandra our Airbnb host. Today’s dish on offer was bacalau asado (grilled salt cod), with chick peas, potatoes and lots of olive oil.
Afternoon recuperation followed by tour at 3pm of Nucleo Archeologico, the fermented fish pits under the Millenium Bank showing a little of the history buried under the city. OK short tour, though not astounding.
Evening walk up to the miradors of Graça district including Miradouro de Graça and later Miradouro de Senhora de Monte (the highest, and with a view to our balcony).
Sunday 26 June
Early walk to Praça da Figueira to catch the No 15 tram to Mosterio dos Jeronimos, our on the banks of the Tejo River. The morning was cool, and an empty No 28 tram rolled up to the stop as we arrived. A No 15 tram (a new modern one, not the vintage wooden ones which run the steep hilly routes), was waiting at the stop, but driverless. Soon enough, the driver came along and we were on our way, whizzing along the streets at a great rate of knots. Passed the Praça do Comércio, still festooned in ugly beer company advertising, and along the riverside, passing Cais do Sodré, and trundling under the Ponte de 25 Abril at Alcantara, before rolling to a stop near Belem.
First port of call was the famous Pastéis de Belém, for second breakfast. When we arrived at about 9am, the place was busy but not ridiculously crowded. We found a table in the azulejo tiled restaurant area, electing not to stand in line at the counter, where the crowds seemed to be larger. We were served in double quick time, and enjoyed 4 little custard tarts, fresh and still warm from the oven. The best practice is to sprinkle some cinnamon powder and icing sugar over the tarts before eating. They melt in the mouth, and the pastry is crisp and flaky. Yum.
There was a long queue to get into Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, and guidebook reports of free entry on Sunday morning were sadly astray (first Sunday each month).So we paid our 10 euro entry fee, and entered. The building g commemorates Vasco da Gama’s voyage of discovery, the decoration, in warm yellow stone is intricate and beautiful. It is all about the magnificent cloister, each column of which is differently carved. Coils of rope, sea monsters, coral, and other sea motifs are redolent the age of maritime exploration. The refectory which is entered from the lower floor has beautiful vaulting and azulejo tile decoration on the walls depicting the Biblical story of Joseph. After exiting through the gift shop, we made a brief turn through the attached church, where Vasco Da Gama’s tomb lies. The high vaulting is also impressive, but the darker in colour, perhaps from centuries of candle smoke.We took our lunch at Pao Pao Queijo Quiejo, choosing sardine baguettes, with chips and salad. A bargain too, at less than 10 euro the lot. The seating area upstairs was cool and comfortable. Free wifi too.After lunch we decided to beat the heat and visit the nearby Museu Coleção Berardo, housed in its starkly austere building, where modern art, from the familiar (Picasso, Warhol, Mondrian, Lichtenstein etc rub shoulders with lesser known artists, spanning the movements of the 20th century from Dadaism to post-minimalism. The supremely wanky descriptive passages describing the purpose of the collection are alone worth the price of admission. (Oh, alright, it is free, but they really are a hoot). I left Minuk resting her feet and legs in the museum foyer before completing a very quick circuit from MCB to the waterside Torre de Belem, and around the yacht harbours to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, standing out over the Tejo River like the prow of a Portuguese Caravel, Henry the Navigator of course, leading the way. Thence across multi-coloured marble compass rose and ‘Mappa Mundi’ and back to the MCB.
It was stuffy and hot on the tram back to the city, and at Cais do Sodré all passengers were asked to disembark. We waited for the next tram, but the next three did the same thing. Gave up and took the metro back to Rossio station, and our start point for the day. A hot trudge via Pingo Doce for further supplies and back to the lovely coolness of our apartment. Cool showers, beer on the terrace where after 7pm the breezes were pleasantly cool, and panfried pork steaks for dinner.
Monday 27 JuneStarted early at Matrim Montiz, to catch an empty No 28 rattling yellow tram up through the steep streets of Graça, heading for the castle district and the view over the red rooftops of the Alfama. Sadly, chose the wrong side of the tram (note, choose left hand side = middle of road). The ride back down to Baixa past the battlemented fortress Se cathedral was particularly steep. The tram was pretty full by this time, but folk began to hop of as we barrelled through Chiado and Santa Catarina, going up hill and down dale along desperately narrow streets.Passed the white colonnaded Parliament buildings and disembarked at Basilica Estrella, opposite the quiet shady Jardim Estrella, where we watched the ducks and ducklings in a rather grotty looking pond, before heading back to the centre via an alternate, though less hilly route on tram No 25. We were dropped in Praça do Comércio, where the cleanup from beer company sponsored vandalism was not much advanced. Checked out the ‘Lisbon Story Centre’, but found that it seemed uninspiring so returned to our house, stopping by Pingo Doce to pick up extra supplies pending Ooq and Dita’s arrival.They were late. But had come by metro and on foot! Good work if ill advised in the heat of the day. We ate roast chicken (a bargain at 4.49 Euro inc rice!) for a late dinner.After a rest, walked an evening circuit of the castle, as the breezes blew cooler. Used the Elevador Castelo, near Pingo Doce, which turned out to be free, to avoid climbing of stairs. Wound our way to Miradouro Santa Luzia, then down to the Se Cathedral, where the yellow trams provided photo opportunities. Back to the house, via Pingo Doce, where we procured the makings of seafood pasta, with a very moderately priced pack of frozen seafood. Very delightful. A credit to Minuk’s cooking prowess.
Tuesday 28 June
Morning walk to São Domingos church, its blackened and pattered columns testament to survival of earthquake and fire. From there, over to Praça dos Restauradores, replete with memorial column to the venerable Elevador Gloria, which we rode up to Chiado. Took oque church, admiring the extravagant design, but elected to pass on the Azulejo Museum. At Largo del Carmo, stopped for refreshments under the Jacaranda trees, then visited the ruined church, its nave naked to the sky, the remaining vaults like skeletal. The apse has been rebuilt, housing a small archeological museum.
We headed for Baixa-Chiado metro station to recharge metro cards. Down 5 escalators into the depths! Surfacing, a quick look around Largo do Chiado (Tram 28 is in view), before, with stomachs rumbling, we take the trip down the Santa Justa Elevator, the wrought iron work of Eifel’s student a treat. Elevator operation quite a jolly chap. Hot down in Baixa with little breeze, and the pavement restaurants uninspiring and breathless. We found respite in Vincenzo’s, whose indoor area was quiet and cool. Ate our fill of grilled sardines, then waddled home.
Evening off to Cais do Sodre,by metro for a fado performance at Povo. Turns out that Povo is on the ‘Pink’ street (paint colour, not sexual orientation!). Our reserved table is in the back of the small room. Drinks and snacks are ordered. I order a caipirinha and fusion wraps – not bad if small. Fortunately I can have some of Minuk’s toast, which is very generous. The show is in short sets of 4 to 6 songs. There are 2 guitarists, one on a conventional guitar, the other on the ‘guitarra’, the instrument of fado. The singer explains the concept of fado, and describes what each song is about. In summary, the songs are about sadness, about longing, and about missing the sadness and longing. We stayed for two sets, but left before the midnight hour.