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Wednesday 29 June
Time for a day trip to Sintra, where the Portuguese royals had their summer residences. Morning train from Rossio station, took 45 minutes. A good view of the tall ‘Aqueduct of Free Waters’ at Campolide station, and at other points on the line. Lisbon stretches far along this railway, with row on row of apartments in commuter suburbs.
Sintra is rugged, forested, and a misty overcast blows. The Loop bus costs 5 euro, and it winds us into town, providing views of the National Palace, with its iconic twin chimneys. Opening time is supposed to be 10am, but after a short time waiting, we try the entrance and find it open by 9:30am
Bought combined ticket for National palace and Pena Palace (22 euro) and visited the National Palace first. The highlights are the interiors, particularly the Swan room, Magpie room (which expounds the virtue of having good words to say), the Ships room and Barony room (azulejos panels on the walls, and baronial crests on the ceiling) plus kitchens surmounted by said iconic chimneys were highlights.
Stopped for a snack at Villa Café during a short stroll through the picturesque streets of the town, which is mostly hotels and souvenir shops and restaurants or cafes. Coffee and pasteis de nata. Uninterested service though we were the only customers.
Next, back on the loop bus up to Pena Palace. Narrow and winding road indeed. And a steep walk up to the palace from the bus stop. Shuttle bus an extra 3 euro. The palace is a Disneyland folly, in yellow, red and grey, with a mishmash of design elements from Moorish to Gaudiesque. The structure is festooned with tourists making selfies. Crenellations, battlements, turrets and towers abound, particularly on the ‘wall walk’, which provides vertiginous and windy views down to the Castle of the Moors.
Palace interior by contrast, low ceilinged and in bad taste, with some spectacularly ugly objet d’art in evidence. No wonder Portugal dispensed with its monarchy. Many of the rooms are repurposed monks quarters, from the time that the Palace served as a monastery. The cafe proved to have expensive dry sandwiches only, so we decided to go back to town for a late lunch.
Down to town on the bus. Skilled driving to miss the walkers makeing the trip on the narrow road. We ate at ‘Bristol’, which was conveniently located by the bus stop. Slow service, slightly below par food, and a staff which could not admit that they were the party at fault.
Train back late afternoon, walk to Tejo River at sunset with Ooq and Dita.
Leftovers dinner and packing
Time for a day trip to Sintra, where the Portuguese royals had their summer residences. Morning train from Rossio station, took 45 minutes. A good view of the tall ‘Aqueduct of Free Waters’ at Campolide station, and at other points on the line. Lisbon stretches far along this railway, with row on row of apartments in commuter suburbs.
Sintra is rugged, forested, and a misty overcast blows. The Loop bus costs 5 euro, and it winds us into town, providing views of the National Palace, with its iconic twin chimneys. Opening time is supposed to be 10am, but after a short time waiting, we try the entrance and find it open by 9:30am
Bought combined ticket for National palace and Pena Palace (22 euro) and visited the National Palace first. The highlights are the interiors, particularly the Swan room, Magpie room (which expounds the virtue of having good words to say), the Ships room and Barony room (azulejos panels on the walls, and baronial crests on the ceiling) plus kitchens surmounted by said iconic chimneys were highlights.
Stopped for a snack at Villa Café during a short stroll through the picturesque streets of the town, which is mostly hotels and souvenir shops and restaurants or cafes. Coffee and pasteis de nata. Uninterested service though we were the only customers.
Next, back on the loop bus up to Pena Palace. Narrow and winding road indeed. And a steep walk up to the palace from the bus stop. Shuttle bus an extra 3 euro. The palace is a Disneyland folly, in yellow, red and grey, with a mishmash of design elements from Moorish to Gaudiesque. The structure is festooned with tourists making selfies. Crenellations, battlements, turrets and towers abound, particularly on the ‘wall walk’, which provides vertiginous and windy views down to the Castle of the Moors.
Palace interior by contrast, low ceilinged and in bad taste, with some spectacularly ugly objet d’art in evidence. No wonder Portugal dispensed with its monarchy. Many of the rooms are repurposed monks quarters, from the time that the Palace served as a monastery. The cafe proved to have expensive dry sandwiches only, so we decided to go back to town for a late lunch.
Down to town on the bus. Skilled driving to miss the walkers makeing the trip on the narrow road. We ate at ‘Bristol’, which was conveniently located by the bus stop. Slow service, slightly below par food, and a staff which could not admit that they were the party at fault.
Train back late afternoon, walk to Tejo River at sunset with Ooq and Dita.
Leftovers dinner and packing