The second stop on our tour of the Iberian peninsula was to be the city of Valencia. Whilst the first thing that comes to mind when the name is mentioned is oranges, it was once the largest city in Spain, and has a very impressive historic core, in addition to the ultra-modern City of Arts and Sciences, which nests in the linear park built on the drained bed of the Turia River, and touted as a way to revitalize the somewhat somnolent economy.
Early rise and breakfast before 7:15am taxi to Estacio Sants for train to Valencia. Views of hills and mountains on one side, sea on the other. Mostly small settlements and holiday villages. On some of the hills, castle battlements stand guard. Agriculture in the fields ranged from olive trees to orchards, and grape vines.
The train arrived on time at 10 past 11. Taxi to apartment very swift. The apartment was not quite ready so we diverted to the nearby shopping centre for lunch, leaving our bags. Lunch is a menu del dia at Udon, where, predictably we eat Japanese food. It is pretty good, especially my soba dish, with an especially good broth. Tempura and a wakame salad are acceptable. Ice cream for desert is rich chocolate, and green tea,
We go shopping at the Mercadonna supermarket, stocking up for our stay, then bring back our spoils. The afternoon was spent settling in to the new digs and watching the dolphin show at Oceanographic through long lens and binoculars
At sunset, I walked to City of Arts and Sciences, for the shapes, angles and reflections, of which there are many in the large and modern structures.
Wednesday 22 June
Walk to metro (15 minutes), to buy 2 day pass. Costs 6.70 euro, but the card costs 2 euro. The metro is modern, the stations gleamingly tiled. Got off the train at Xativa, opposite the grand Estacion del Nord and Plaza dos Toros, which is used these days for concerts, rather than bullfights. The exterior and interior tilework of the station is sumptuous, and features oranges in profusion!
The square across the road is lined with gracious Ayuntamiento buildings, bearing witness to the prosperity of the city. Retail stores of various types line the streets as we make our way to our first stop, the wrought iron Mercado Centrale and nearby, the La Lonja del Seda, a world heritage listed former Silk Exchange. We paid the very reasonable 3 euro entrance fee for a look. Around a courtyard
Afterward, made our way via the novel circular Plaza Redondo (lined with handicraft stores), to the National Museum of Ceramics and Decorative Arts "González Martí, again a very reasonable 3 euros for entry. The building exterior is encrusted with rococo, neoclassical and oriental design elements, whilst the collection is displayed throughout the rooms of the Palace of the Marqués de Dos Aguas
It was now time for lunch, and the day was warming up. we chose to eat Paella (with duck and snails)and salad with seaweed and ham chips at Bisbe, Turia Beer as an accompaniment was very good. Afterward only a short walk back to the bus stop and on to our apartment. A quick supermarket visit set us up for dinner and breakfast.
Afternoon rest and bus ride for evening stroll with Minuk at City of Arts and Sciences. Hemisphere part open like sleepy eye, as it hosted a function.
Thursday 23 June
Bus No 1 to Torres del Serrano, one of the remaining gates to old town. Two crenelated towers rearing up for the banks of the Turia River.
Huge crowds in the Plaza del Vergen, and all around the Cathedral.
Climbed Santa Catalina’s Bell tower for a view of Plaza del Rei and cathedral
Bought take-away Arroz Negra from Es Paella, a bargain at 5.90 Euro, then walked back to the bus stop and home.
Back at apartment ate lunch (arroz negra lived up to its promise) and then later in the afternoon watched another dolphin show – much the same as the previous shows.
After a light dinner, I took the bus out to the beaches to see what the doings were for the ‘Night of Saint John’, a particularly Catalan celebration of the summer solstice. The beaches extend for many kilometres, with grand views of either apartment towers, dock cranes or oil storage tanks, depending on the direction of your view! Locals were out in force for this celebration. Along the beachside promenade, at intervals, folk were selling firewood. Purchasers would lug their faggots of firewood onto the beach, and set up a firepit. Others would bring the supplementary requirements. These might include chairs, tables, blankets or even food. Most importantly, plenty of beer or other alcoholic beverage of ones preference).
As dusk began to descend, some folk began to light their fires, in preparation for a night of drinking ahead. Firecrackers could be heard. Apparently, once the fires are lit, folk leap over the coals
Early rise and breakfast before 7:15am taxi to Estacio Sants for train to Valencia. Views of hills and mountains on one side, sea on the other. Mostly small settlements and holiday villages. On some of the hills, castle battlements stand guard. Agriculture in the fields ranged from olive trees to orchards, and grape vines.
The train arrived on time at 10 past 11. Taxi to apartment very swift. The apartment was not quite ready so we diverted to the nearby shopping centre for lunch, leaving our bags. Lunch is a menu del dia at Udon, where, predictably we eat Japanese food. It is pretty good, especially my soba dish, with an especially good broth. Tempura and a wakame salad are acceptable. Ice cream for desert is rich chocolate, and green tea,
We go shopping at the Mercadonna supermarket, stocking up for our stay, then bring back our spoils. The afternoon was spent settling in to the new digs and watching the dolphin show at Oceanographic through long lens and binoculars
At sunset, I walked to City of Arts and Sciences, for the shapes, angles and reflections, of which there are many in the large and modern structures.
Wednesday 22 June
Walk to metro (15 minutes), to buy 2 day pass. Costs 6.70 euro, but the card costs 2 euro. The metro is modern, the stations gleamingly tiled. Got off the train at Xativa, opposite the grand Estacion del Nord and Plaza dos Toros, which is used these days for concerts, rather than bullfights. The exterior and interior tilework of the station is sumptuous, and features oranges in profusion!
The square across the road is lined with gracious Ayuntamiento buildings, bearing witness to the prosperity of the city. Retail stores of various types line the streets as we make our way to our first stop, the wrought iron Mercado Centrale and nearby, the La Lonja del Seda, a world heritage listed former Silk Exchange. We paid the very reasonable 3 euro entrance fee for a look. Around a courtyard
Afterward, made our way via the novel circular Plaza Redondo (lined with handicraft stores), to the National Museum of Ceramics and Decorative Arts "González Martí, again a very reasonable 3 euros for entry. The building exterior is encrusted with rococo, neoclassical and oriental design elements, whilst the collection is displayed throughout the rooms of the Palace of the Marqués de Dos Aguas
It was now time for lunch, and the day was warming up. we chose to eat Paella (with duck and snails)and salad with seaweed and ham chips at Bisbe, Turia Beer as an accompaniment was very good. Afterward only a short walk back to the bus stop and on to our apartment. A quick supermarket visit set us up for dinner and breakfast.
Afternoon rest and bus ride for evening stroll with Minuk at City of Arts and Sciences. Hemisphere part open like sleepy eye, as it hosted a function.
Thursday 23 June
Bus No 1 to Torres del Serrano, one of the remaining gates to old town. Two crenelated towers rearing up for the banks of the Turia River.
Huge crowds in the Plaza del Vergen, and all around the Cathedral.
Climbed Santa Catalina’s Bell tower for a view of Plaza del Rei and cathedral
Bought take-away Arroz Negra from Es Paella, a bargain at 5.90 Euro, then walked back to the bus stop and home.
Back at apartment ate lunch (arroz negra lived up to its promise) and then later in the afternoon watched another dolphin show – much the same as the previous shows.
After a light dinner, I took the bus out to the beaches to see what the doings were for the ‘Night of Saint John’, a particularly Catalan celebration of the summer solstice. The beaches extend for many kilometres, with grand views of either apartment towers, dock cranes or oil storage tanks, depending on the direction of your view! Locals were out in force for this celebration. Along the beachside promenade, at intervals, folk were selling firewood. Purchasers would lug their faggots of firewood onto the beach, and set up a firepit. Others would bring the supplementary requirements. These might include chairs, tables, blankets or even food. Most importantly, plenty of beer or other alcoholic beverage of ones preference).
As dusk began to descend, some folk began to light their fires, in preparation for a night of drinking ahead. Firecrackers could be heard. Apparently, once the fires are lit, folk leap over the coals