9 June
After a leisurely breakfast, we caught a bus to the Kazan Kremlin high on its green mound, white battlemented walls surmounting them, and the Disney spires of the Kul Sharif mosque piercing the sky above the walls.
Before the gates of the Kremlin stands the bronze statue of a man tearing at barbed wire. Erected in memory of poet Musa Dzhalil, executed by the Nazis in Berlin in 1944. The Kremlin contains a mix of government offices, religious buildings and museums. Most spectacular is the soaring Kul Sharif Mosque, with gleaming white marble walls and minarets, and glistening turquoise tiled domes.
We walked all around the mosque, gaining views form all perspectives. Inside, a viewing gallery lets visitors see the prayer hall, and the balcony reserved for female worshippers.
Viewed Presidential palace from its gate (no entry), the Annunciation Cathedral (same designer as St Basils in Moscow), the Syuyumbike Tower (either the site of the suicide of the eponymous princess, who jumped from it in order to escape an unwanted marriage to Ivan the Terrible, after she had tricked him into building the tower as a condition of their betrothal, or if you prefer, named after the princess who was married to the Shakh-Ali, ruler of Kazan’s rival Kasimov, via the dynastic manipulations of Ivan the Terrible. They hated each other at first sight and avoided contact throughout their long lives, whilst Syuyumbike morphed from a tiny eastern beauty into a bulky matriarch, who was a master of political intrigue).
Expansive views from behind the cathedral over the city to a magnificent cupolaed and statue studded French baroque style Ministry of Agriculture and Food, distinctive for the huge bronze tree beneath its central dome.
Walked down ul Kremliyovskaya, strangely deserted, and lined with freshly painted grand building to pedestrianised ul. Baumana, where folk meandered between the odd kiosk like vents which stud the centre of the street, and the many tourist restaurants lining each side. We ate at the cafeteria style Chak-Chak, where point and pick was the order of the day. I enjoyed the sour beef soup, though the meatballs with tomato sauce and mashed potatoes was less distinctive. Minuk had a chicken curry, which tasted remarkably like Indonesian opor ayam. We had a rather nice piece of baked cottage cheesecake for dessert. Cost only 650 roubles ($16).
I went for a short solo stroll to check out the colourfully decorated SS Peter & Paul Cathedral, tucked in between buildings a couple of blocks north of ul. Baumana. I met up with Minuk at the end of the pedestrian street, after walking past the various public sculptures which punctuate its length. The Kazan Cat requires its tummy rubbed for luck, and there is also a bronze replica of a Catherine the Great Coach, a frog fountain, a fountain with bronze pigeons etc. We decided to walk home via the kitchy ‘Museum of Soviet Life’, full of Pop Art items from the 50s, 60s and 70s, including lots of guitars. Tired at the end of the day.
We rested up until hunger pangs asserted themselves, and took ourselves up to the pedestrianised ul. Kayuma Nasyri, which was strangely deserted, possible because it is now Ramadan. Passed Kazan’s first stone mosque, the Mardjani, its minaret catching the rays of the setting sun. We eventually found an restaurant which was open, Tartarskaya Usadba, where whilst the suroundings were pleasant enough, the food left a little to be desired, being a little bland and unexciting, and not representing good value for the price (1360 roubles, $34), including the most overpriced beer of the trip (380 roubles). And they mixed up our orders. Maybe we picked wrong, or should have tried the horsemeat dishes!
10 June
For breakfast enjoyed the bacon flavoured sausages host Zara had left in our food package. Yum. Otherwise a toast and coffee breakfast.
I took a morning stroll by myself, to see the Tartarstan National Library, which reportedly has a fine art nouveau interior. Despite being told to come at 10am for a Russian tour, when I returned I was told that the tour was full! Too many tourists! I had diverted for a look at the Lenin Gardens [Heart encrusted park benches]and the Black Lake Park [Lover’s Whispering Arch at entrance], and admiring the art deco and art nouveau apartments in the surrounding streets, occasionally clashing with a piece of crumbling Soviet Concrete Brutalism whilst waiting. Told to ‘come back tomorrow, I decided to give it a miss and look at pictures on the internet instead! Walked back to our apartment for a rest and to a message that Zara will make us dinner tonight. She is a ream gem.
We headed out for lunch, again successfully picking the right bus to get relatively quick access to ul. Baumana, and a 2nd meal at Chak-Chak. This time I had chicken wings and potato wedges, whilst Minuk tried beef stew and yellow rice. We shared a cream of mushroom soup.
Then walked up to the Kremlin and visited the interesting National Museum of the Republic Tartarstan. The history of the Tartar peoples, is well set out in a very ornate building. Not much English signage but easy to work out. There are some reasonably good archaeological and jewellery exhibits.
Afterward, whilst Minuk sat on a park bench, I went for a half hour stroll down the Kremlin hill to look more closely at the Ministry of Agriculture and Food. There were throngs of people congregating in the park, and the most popular photo opportunity was under the massive bronze tree. It was also a favourite place for wedding photos, with at least two wedding partied in attendance, and many folk wandering about in their finery on a sunny and warm Saturday afternoon.
Back up the hill to meet Minuk, and a walk back down to find a bus home. Quick supermarket shop, and home for a late afternoon rest. Zara arrived at 8pm and prepared us a nice meal. Chicken with new potatoes and salad. A pleasant sweet red wine, flavoured with apple to drink. Good conversation ensued. Zara believes that we both look like Tartars!
11 June
We took it very easy this morning. A leisurely breakfast, then catching up on blog entries until it was time to head off to the station for out long trip to Saint Petersburg. Just before noon, Zara came to collect us and obtain a taxi to the station. We bid fond farewells, and took our 100 rouble trip to the grand Central Station. Security required bags to be X-rayed at the entry. It took a while to find the proper waiting room, and the new extension to the station is a confusing labyrinth. I went out onto one of the platforms to take some photos of the old station building, and had to exit the station to re-enter the building. Was asked for passport and papers by policemen on my 2nd trip through security. Glad that Zara was able to get the extra registration completed.
After a leisurely breakfast, we caught a bus to the Kazan Kremlin high on its green mound, white battlemented walls surmounting them, and the Disney spires of the Kul Sharif mosque piercing the sky above the walls.
Before the gates of the Kremlin stands the bronze statue of a man tearing at barbed wire. Erected in memory of poet Musa Dzhalil, executed by the Nazis in Berlin in 1944. The Kremlin contains a mix of government offices, religious buildings and museums. Most spectacular is the soaring Kul Sharif Mosque, with gleaming white marble walls and minarets, and glistening turquoise tiled domes.
We walked all around the mosque, gaining views form all perspectives. Inside, a viewing gallery lets visitors see the prayer hall, and the balcony reserved for female worshippers.
Viewed Presidential palace from its gate (no entry), the Annunciation Cathedral (same designer as St Basils in Moscow), the Syuyumbike Tower (either the site of the suicide of the eponymous princess, who jumped from it in order to escape an unwanted marriage to Ivan the Terrible, after she had tricked him into building the tower as a condition of their betrothal, or if you prefer, named after the princess who was married to the Shakh-Ali, ruler of Kazan’s rival Kasimov, via the dynastic manipulations of Ivan the Terrible. They hated each other at first sight and avoided contact throughout their long lives, whilst Syuyumbike morphed from a tiny eastern beauty into a bulky matriarch, who was a master of political intrigue).
Expansive views from behind the cathedral over the city to a magnificent cupolaed and statue studded French baroque style Ministry of Agriculture and Food, distinctive for the huge bronze tree beneath its central dome.
Walked down ul Kremliyovskaya, strangely deserted, and lined with freshly painted grand building to pedestrianised ul. Baumana, where folk meandered between the odd kiosk like vents which stud the centre of the street, and the many tourist restaurants lining each side. We ate at the cafeteria style Chak-Chak, where point and pick was the order of the day. I enjoyed the sour beef soup, though the meatballs with tomato sauce and mashed potatoes was less distinctive. Minuk had a chicken curry, which tasted remarkably like Indonesian opor ayam. We had a rather nice piece of baked cottage cheesecake for dessert. Cost only 650 roubles ($16).
I went for a short solo stroll to check out the colourfully decorated SS Peter & Paul Cathedral, tucked in between buildings a couple of blocks north of ul. Baumana. I met up with Minuk at the end of the pedestrian street, after walking past the various public sculptures which punctuate its length. The Kazan Cat requires its tummy rubbed for luck, and there is also a bronze replica of a Catherine the Great Coach, a frog fountain, a fountain with bronze pigeons etc. We decided to walk home via the kitchy ‘Museum of Soviet Life’, full of Pop Art items from the 50s, 60s and 70s, including lots of guitars. Tired at the end of the day.
We rested up until hunger pangs asserted themselves, and took ourselves up to the pedestrianised ul. Kayuma Nasyri, which was strangely deserted, possible because it is now Ramadan. Passed Kazan’s first stone mosque, the Mardjani, its minaret catching the rays of the setting sun. We eventually found an restaurant which was open, Tartarskaya Usadba, where whilst the suroundings were pleasant enough, the food left a little to be desired, being a little bland and unexciting, and not representing good value for the price (1360 roubles, $34), including the most overpriced beer of the trip (380 roubles). And they mixed up our orders. Maybe we picked wrong, or should have tried the horsemeat dishes!
10 June
For breakfast enjoyed the bacon flavoured sausages host Zara had left in our food package. Yum. Otherwise a toast and coffee breakfast.
I took a morning stroll by myself, to see the Tartarstan National Library, which reportedly has a fine art nouveau interior. Despite being told to come at 10am for a Russian tour, when I returned I was told that the tour was full! Too many tourists! I had diverted for a look at the Lenin Gardens [Heart encrusted park benches]and the Black Lake Park [Lover’s Whispering Arch at entrance], and admiring the art deco and art nouveau apartments in the surrounding streets, occasionally clashing with a piece of crumbling Soviet Concrete Brutalism whilst waiting. Told to ‘come back tomorrow, I decided to give it a miss and look at pictures on the internet instead! Walked back to our apartment for a rest and to a message that Zara will make us dinner tonight. She is a ream gem.
We headed out for lunch, again successfully picking the right bus to get relatively quick access to ul. Baumana, and a 2nd meal at Chak-Chak. This time I had chicken wings and potato wedges, whilst Minuk tried beef stew and yellow rice. We shared a cream of mushroom soup.
Then walked up to the Kremlin and visited the interesting National Museum of the Republic Tartarstan. The history of the Tartar peoples, is well set out in a very ornate building. Not much English signage but easy to work out. There are some reasonably good archaeological and jewellery exhibits.
Afterward, whilst Minuk sat on a park bench, I went for a half hour stroll down the Kremlin hill to look more closely at the Ministry of Agriculture and Food. There were throngs of people congregating in the park, and the most popular photo opportunity was under the massive bronze tree. It was also a favourite place for wedding photos, with at least two wedding partied in attendance, and many folk wandering about in their finery on a sunny and warm Saturday afternoon.
Back up the hill to meet Minuk, and a walk back down to find a bus home. Quick supermarket shop, and home for a late afternoon rest. Zara arrived at 8pm and prepared us a nice meal. Chicken with new potatoes and salad. A pleasant sweet red wine, flavoured with apple to drink. Good conversation ensued. Zara believes that we both look like Tartars!
11 June
We took it very easy this morning. A leisurely breakfast, then catching up on blog entries until it was time to head off to the station for out long trip to Saint Petersburg. Just before noon, Zara came to collect us and obtain a taxi to the station. We bid fond farewells, and took our 100 rouble trip to the grand Central Station. Security required bags to be X-rayed at the entry. It took a while to find the proper waiting room, and the new extension to the station is a confusing labyrinth. I went out onto one of the platforms to take some photos of the old station building, and had to exit the station to re-enter the building. Was asked for passport and papers by policemen on my 2nd trip through security. Glad that Zara was able to get the extra registration completed.