Woke to birds twittering and no power, so went into the garden to check out the birdlife. Wrens, sparrows and a cat. Colin confirmed that they had no power either, so I returned to make fried eggs with sausage, and to brew coffee on the gas stove. S & C rose a little later, having not slept all that well, given the clamminess of the bedding in the damp climate, particularly sans power for their fan. I found that I did not need the fan, because the nights are quite surprisingly cool. We checked the bus schedule and elected to catch the 9:50 bus into town. Arrived early at the bus stop and took photos of hummingbirds flitting amongst the flowers on the trees. The birds are iridescent green or golden yellow in colour, and very tiny indeed.
The bus arrived with a rush, and scattered the birds. It seemed to cost about 3 Real. Most of the locals pay with a touch card. The bus ride was a rollicking one, at breakneck speed on the narrow winding and bumpy road, but slamming on the brakes at the frequent speed bumps. A circuitous route was followed, on a narrow bumpy dirt road, but we reached the bus station within 30 minutes.
The cobblestoned streets of the historic of the historic town are just a few hundred metres from the bus station. They are lined with elegant white buildings, each with many-coloured borders and latticed windows. Many of the houses are either hotels, or shops and restaurants. The town prospered through the 16th and 17th centuries, because it was the only port providing ready access to the gold mines of Minas Gerais. Ultimately, new roads bypassed it and it declined in importance, until rediscovered as a tourist destination. Street stalls were setting up on the shaded sides of the streets, but on a weekday, and now in the off season, business seemed sleepy and slow. The sky was blue with bright cumulus clouds, the sun was hot, when the sea breezes were blocked. There are a number of colonial churches in the town, but most were closed for renovation. It was possible to enter the largest of the churches, Matriz NS dos Remedios for a quick look at the whitewashed interior and large altarpiece. The attractive chapel of the wealthy, NS do Dores was close to the beach and the river, on which brightly coloured tour boats congregated, looking for daytrippers to take out for cruises. On Pontal beach, yellow plastic chairs and yellow umbrellas stood mostly empty under shady trees.
I met Stephen & Clare, fresh from shopping and checking out the craft shops in Plaza Matriz, under the shady trees, and we went for lunch at Arprodor Restaurant, serving a tasty Bahian dish called mocqueta, a stew, served with manioc and rice, and very yummy. The 20% discount on the meals was just enough to cover the tax and fee for the live music!
We bought supplies for dinner (vegetables) and caught the 2:30pm bus back up to Sitio Namaste, where the power had not yet been restored. So I went down for a swim in the river, enjoying the coolness of the natural shower in a waterfall, and a bubbly spa, tumbling over the huge granite boulders in the river. Half an hour or so was enough, but I was refreshed after the experience. We cooked and ate in candlelight (and emergency battery light), bidding farewell to Brazil with chicken patties, baked eggplant and peppers, and chip potatoes. A Chilean red washed down the meal. Desert once more was fresh mango. Once the light faded and it was no longer possible to read, it was a case of early to bed. Once more, the fireflies were putting on a show in the surrounding forest.
The bus arrived with a rush, and scattered the birds. It seemed to cost about 3 Real. Most of the locals pay with a touch card. The bus ride was a rollicking one, at breakneck speed on the narrow winding and bumpy road, but slamming on the brakes at the frequent speed bumps. A circuitous route was followed, on a narrow bumpy dirt road, but we reached the bus station within 30 minutes.
The cobblestoned streets of the historic of the historic town are just a few hundred metres from the bus station. They are lined with elegant white buildings, each with many-coloured borders and latticed windows. Many of the houses are either hotels, or shops and restaurants. The town prospered through the 16th and 17th centuries, because it was the only port providing ready access to the gold mines of Minas Gerais. Ultimately, new roads bypassed it and it declined in importance, until rediscovered as a tourist destination. Street stalls were setting up on the shaded sides of the streets, but on a weekday, and now in the off season, business seemed sleepy and slow. The sky was blue with bright cumulus clouds, the sun was hot, when the sea breezes were blocked. There are a number of colonial churches in the town, but most were closed for renovation. It was possible to enter the largest of the churches, Matriz NS dos Remedios for a quick look at the whitewashed interior and large altarpiece. The attractive chapel of the wealthy, NS do Dores was close to the beach and the river, on which brightly coloured tour boats congregated, looking for daytrippers to take out for cruises. On Pontal beach, yellow plastic chairs and yellow umbrellas stood mostly empty under shady trees.
I met Stephen & Clare, fresh from shopping and checking out the craft shops in Plaza Matriz, under the shady trees, and we went for lunch at Arprodor Restaurant, serving a tasty Bahian dish called mocqueta, a stew, served with manioc and rice, and very yummy. The 20% discount on the meals was just enough to cover the tax and fee for the live music!
We bought supplies for dinner (vegetables) and caught the 2:30pm bus back up to Sitio Namaste, where the power had not yet been restored. So I went down for a swim in the river, enjoying the coolness of the natural shower in a waterfall, and a bubbly spa, tumbling over the huge granite boulders in the river. Half an hour or so was enough, but I was refreshed after the experience. We cooked and ate in candlelight (and emergency battery light), bidding farewell to Brazil with chicken patties, baked eggplant and peppers, and chip potatoes. A Chilean red washed down the meal. Desert once more was fresh mango. Once the light faded and it was no longer possible to read, it was a case of early to bed. Once more, the fireflies were putting on a show in the surrounding forest.