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A leisurely morning saw us out looking for a taxi to Cosme Velho and the Tren Corcovado just after 10:30. The cab cost 30 Real, and took us around the attractive Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, surrounded by granite domes and apartment towers. Within 20 minutes we were standing in the narrow valley, next to the train station. From this vantage, we could see that the sky was blue and the Cristo Redentor was sunlit.
Our tickets on the cog railway were for 1pm, so there was some time to fill. The small (3 floors), Museu International de Art Naíf do Brasil is just a few steps up the main street from the train station, and was a pleasant way to spend half an hour or so. The museum has a fine large painting by Lia Mittarakis, entitled ‘Rio I love your Happy people’, and shows the Corcovado Christ looking over the city. A 3rd floor mural tells the history of Brazil over the past 5 centuries, up to the founding of Brasillia. Amongst the information communicated is the derivation of the name Brazil – from the brazilwood tree, first exploited for its desirable red dye (red like and ember). Entry was just 6 Real with a 50% discount given if one had a Tren Corcovado ticket stub.
Afterward, we walked up the street to a small cobblestoned square, Largo de Botanico, which was distinctive with its once brightly painted houses, slowing decaying and peeling in the tropical heat (and the presence of the now ubiquitous police car, with police keeping an eye on things, a sight we have seen all over the city). Back at the train station, we waited under a flag draped canopy, drinking beers and mango juice, until an opportunity came to take and earlier train at 12:20. So we were of on the steep track, rising through the forest (seemingly comprised of many jackfruit trees, all with fruit rotting on the trees), to Morro des Inlgese and ultimately to the granite spire of Corcovado, in about 20 minutes. Oohs and aahs from the passengers and the panoramic views of the coastline were revealed near the 710m peak.
One can see Jesus’ back on the steps up at the train station, and then of course, must fight ones way through the scrum of selfie sticks and folk posing, Christlike for their happy snaps, to get ones own version of same!
The concrete Christ is rather stolid in his gaze, and from my observation, has eyes with neither iris, nor pupil. Spooky. He has a dinky little moustache, and an ethnically inaccurate Caucasian nose. However, since he is an idealised and imaginary deity, this is of no consequence or significance. The draperies and fold of his concrete cloak are very finely executed.
The views from the small platform (really too small for the crowds), are very fine, extending all over the ‘Cidade Maravilhosa’, from the mountains to the beaches. The white of apartment blocks contrasting with the green forest, the brown granite of the morros and the sparking blue of the sea. As a bonus, the air is cooler at 710m. We spent an hour or so looking about, then stopped for a cooling drink at a kiosk, where the Redentor premium was about 3 Real per drink. Had a mango juice (fresh) and tried a bit of an açai smoothie (from an amazonian berry), which was also quite tasty. Enjoyed the breezes and the views whist discussing plans for the remainder of the day. Was it to be Pão de Açúcar or Ipanema beach and the Lagoa. We enjoyed the cog rail trip back down the mountain, and, given the persistence of blue sky and sunshine, elected to visit the Sugarloaf. We took a taxi, who asked 40 Real for the trip, only twice the proper fare, but due to lack of other visible taxis, took it anyway. Nice views of the granite mountain from Botofogo Bay en route.
The bottom station of the two stage cablecar is beside the Praia Vermelha (so called because of its reddish sands). The fee is, like the Corcovado train, 62 Real, but in this case, no need for bookings.
The first cable car takes us to the top of Morro da Urca, where we watch hawks circle (perhaps looking for incautious marmosets), and aircraft taking off from Santos Dumont airport making a quick left turn to avoid the Sugarloaf. From this outlook, the steepness of the cliff beneath Cristo Redentor becomes apparent. The second cable car rises more precipitously to the top of the bare granite dome, and even more expansive views are on offer, extending from Copacabana and the Corcovado, the city centre, and all over Guanabara Bay to Niteroi. It was a couple of hours before sunset, and the greater amount of space atop the Sugarloaf was refreshing after the crowds at the Corcovado. Marmosets were visible in the treetops below the lookout points, where a small forest of bamboo shelters. Whilst we waited or the sun to slide down in the sky, threatening clouds built up from the north, battling with the sea breezes above Corcovado. As we stopped for a snack (shrimp pastry, 8 Real), the marmosets invaded the viewing area, after easy pickings from tourists (despite the signs asking that the animals not be fed, they were). Cute and impish trumps rules anytime.
A quick walk through the forest area in search of more wildlife found only trysting couples, looking for a private pash. Back at the viewpoint, the dark clouds were winning the sunset battle, so it was time to return to the apartment. Spits of rain on the taxi window as we neared the apartment validated the choice. The rain started soon afterward and continued for a couple of hours. After the rain stopped, a walk down Rua Siquera Campos toward the beach found a couple of dining options. We opted for ‘Galeto’, one of a chain, where my choice of shredded meat with onions and deep fried manioc was pretty good (37 Real). We also scored our first (and pretty potent) capirinhas. Fully sated, toddled of to bed after doing some washing.
Our tickets on the cog railway were for 1pm, so there was some time to fill. The small (3 floors), Museu International de Art Naíf do Brasil is just a few steps up the main street from the train station, and was a pleasant way to spend half an hour or so. The museum has a fine large painting by Lia Mittarakis, entitled ‘Rio I love your Happy people’, and shows the Corcovado Christ looking over the city. A 3rd floor mural tells the history of Brazil over the past 5 centuries, up to the founding of Brasillia. Amongst the information communicated is the derivation of the name Brazil – from the brazilwood tree, first exploited for its desirable red dye (red like and ember). Entry was just 6 Real with a 50% discount given if one had a Tren Corcovado ticket stub.
Afterward, we walked up the street to a small cobblestoned square, Largo de Botanico, which was distinctive with its once brightly painted houses, slowing decaying and peeling in the tropical heat (and the presence of the now ubiquitous police car, with police keeping an eye on things, a sight we have seen all over the city). Back at the train station, we waited under a flag draped canopy, drinking beers and mango juice, until an opportunity came to take and earlier train at 12:20. So we were of on the steep track, rising through the forest (seemingly comprised of many jackfruit trees, all with fruit rotting on the trees), to Morro des Inlgese and ultimately to the granite spire of Corcovado, in about 20 minutes. Oohs and aahs from the passengers and the panoramic views of the coastline were revealed near the 710m peak.
One can see Jesus’ back on the steps up at the train station, and then of course, must fight ones way through the scrum of selfie sticks and folk posing, Christlike for their happy snaps, to get ones own version of same!
The concrete Christ is rather stolid in his gaze, and from my observation, has eyes with neither iris, nor pupil. Spooky. He has a dinky little moustache, and an ethnically inaccurate Caucasian nose. However, since he is an idealised and imaginary deity, this is of no consequence or significance. The draperies and fold of his concrete cloak are very finely executed.
The views from the small platform (really too small for the crowds), are very fine, extending all over the ‘Cidade Maravilhosa’, from the mountains to the beaches. The white of apartment blocks contrasting with the green forest, the brown granite of the morros and the sparking blue of the sea. As a bonus, the air is cooler at 710m. We spent an hour or so looking about, then stopped for a cooling drink at a kiosk, where the Redentor premium was about 3 Real per drink. Had a mango juice (fresh) and tried a bit of an açai smoothie (from an amazonian berry), which was also quite tasty. Enjoyed the breezes and the views whist discussing plans for the remainder of the day. Was it to be Pão de Açúcar or Ipanema beach and the Lagoa. We enjoyed the cog rail trip back down the mountain, and, given the persistence of blue sky and sunshine, elected to visit the Sugarloaf. We took a taxi, who asked 40 Real for the trip, only twice the proper fare, but due to lack of other visible taxis, took it anyway. Nice views of the granite mountain from Botofogo Bay en route.
The bottom station of the two stage cablecar is beside the Praia Vermelha (so called because of its reddish sands). The fee is, like the Corcovado train, 62 Real, but in this case, no need for bookings.
The first cable car takes us to the top of Morro da Urca, where we watch hawks circle (perhaps looking for incautious marmosets), and aircraft taking off from Santos Dumont airport making a quick left turn to avoid the Sugarloaf. From this outlook, the steepness of the cliff beneath Cristo Redentor becomes apparent. The second cable car rises more precipitously to the top of the bare granite dome, and even more expansive views are on offer, extending from Copacabana and the Corcovado, the city centre, and all over Guanabara Bay to Niteroi. It was a couple of hours before sunset, and the greater amount of space atop the Sugarloaf was refreshing after the crowds at the Corcovado. Marmosets were visible in the treetops below the lookout points, where a small forest of bamboo shelters. Whilst we waited or the sun to slide down in the sky, threatening clouds built up from the north, battling with the sea breezes above Corcovado. As we stopped for a snack (shrimp pastry, 8 Real), the marmosets invaded the viewing area, after easy pickings from tourists (despite the signs asking that the animals not be fed, they were). Cute and impish trumps rules anytime.
A quick walk through the forest area in search of more wildlife found only trysting couples, looking for a private pash. Back at the viewpoint, the dark clouds were winning the sunset battle, so it was time to return to the apartment. Spits of rain on the taxi window as we neared the apartment validated the choice. The rain started soon afterward and continued for a couple of hours. After the rain stopped, a walk down Rua Siquera Campos toward the beach found a couple of dining options. We opted for ‘Galeto’, one of a chain, where my choice of shredded meat with onions and deep fried manioc was pretty good (37 Real). We also scored our first (and pretty potent) capirinhas. Fully sated, toddled of to bed after doing some washing.