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Sunday 26 August
Went separate ways today. After an early breakfast, I took a day trip to Dessau, to visit the Bauhaus. Minuk stayed home for elevenses, then visited the Museum of Musical Instruments (part of the Grassi Museum), and the very angsty (and huge) Fine Arts Museum after a Laska (yes Laksa) for lunch at Bahnhof.
I caught the RE13 direct to Dessau, and by 10am was walking in cool breezes and sunshine to the iconic Bauhaus itself. Scaffolding on the Studio building affected the clean lines, but not the view of the famous balconies.
Inside the building, I viewed a video describing the buildings of the town of Dessau, and the reasons and history of their construction. A focus also on the famous and not so famous names who produced so much that resonates in modern architecture and industry in such a short period of time. From Walter Gropius, to Hannes Meyer and Mies van de Rohe
The permanent display is compact, with a rather to slow audiovisual history taking the visitor through the years from 1919 to 1933. Ticket 8.50 €. I also got to meander about the building, though mostly observed closed doors and corridors. Did get a peek into the Director’s studio as a group exited. Unfortunately, much was only open to guided tours, which cost extra, and were in German. There was a rather good exhibition examining the career of Carl Fieger, who was one of the few of the Bauhaus alumni who remained in Germany.
Stopped for coffee and cake at the bistro in the basement before walking on to the Master’s Houses, in their serene landscape of pines and meadows, passing Mies van der Rohe’s tiny kiosk on the way. The Gropius and Moholy-Nagy/Finger houses have been reconstructed so as to produce an ‘impression’ of their original form. By contrast, the Kandinsky’Klee and Muche houses are being restored and are to be reflective of their original state whan completed.
I walked out to the Elbe to look at the Carl Fieger designed Kornhaus with its curved glass balcony. It is now a restaurant. Then walked back to the town through the forest and the Georgium Park, finding the Schloss covered in scaffolds.
A tram ride took me down to the Torten Housing estate. Passed the massive construction site for the new Bauhaus Museum, due for opening next year. Managed to locate the Steel House and Fieger House (private and behind trees!), then walked the ring roads of the estate find the Konsum and the ‘Balcony Access Buildings. Back to the centre by tram.
Took a last look at the Bauhaus before returning to Leipzig via Halle, due to a delayed train (RE8), meaning a tight connection at Bitterfeld was missed. The S5X from Halle to Leipzig was packed with travelers heading from, or returning from the Leipzig-Halle Airport. The returnees very sunburned!
The trip that took 45 minutes on the way out, took an hour and 40 minutes on the way back (and covered about twice the distance!). Took the tram home, picking up a Doner kebab wrap with the help of another customer) from the Tamars joint near the tram stop (5 €) . A friendly black cat was sitting on our balcony when I returned.
Minuk thought that the sauce on the doner was too salty. We finished off the ice cream though.
Beer of the Day: Sternquell Burgerbrau Pilsener
Went separate ways today. After an early breakfast, I took a day trip to Dessau, to visit the Bauhaus. Minuk stayed home for elevenses, then visited the Museum of Musical Instruments (part of the Grassi Museum), and the very angsty (and huge) Fine Arts Museum after a Laska (yes Laksa) for lunch at Bahnhof.
I caught the RE13 direct to Dessau, and by 10am was walking in cool breezes and sunshine to the iconic Bauhaus itself. Scaffolding on the Studio building affected the clean lines, but not the view of the famous balconies.
Inside the building, I viewed a video describing the buildings of the town of Dessau, and the reasons and history of their construction. A focus also on the famous and not so famous names who produced so much that resonates in modern architecture and industry in such a short period of time. From Walter Gropius, to Hannes Meyer and Mies van de Rohe
The permanent display is compact, with a rather to slow audiovisual history taking the visitor through the years from 1919 to 1933. Ticket 8.50 €. I also got to meander about the building, though mostly observed closed doors and corridors. Did get a peek into the Director’s studio as a group exited. Unfortunately, much was only open to guided tours, which cost extra, and were in German. There was a rather good exhibition examining the career of Carl Fieger, who was one of the few of the Bauhaus alumni who remained in Germany.
Stopped for coffee and cake at the bistro in the basement before walking on to the Master’s Houses, in their serene landscape of pines and meadows, passing Mies van der Rohe’s tiny kiosk on the way. The Gropius and Moholy-Nagy/Finger houses have been reconstructed so as to produce an ‘impression’ of their original form. By contrast, the Kandinsky’Klee and Muche houses are being restored and are to be reflective of their original state whan completed.
I walked out to the Elbe to look at the Carl Fieger designed Kornhaus with its curved glass balcony. It is now a restaurant. Then walked back to the town through the forest and the Georgium Park, finding the Schloss covered in scaffolds.
A tram ride took me down to the Torten Housing estate. Passed the massive construction site for the new Bauhaus Museum, due for opening next year. Managed to locate the Steel House and Fieger House (private and behind trees!), then walked the ring roads of the estate find the Konsum and the ‘Balcony Access Buildings. Back to the centre by tram.
Took a last look at the Bauhaus before returning to Leipzig via Halle, due to a delayed train (RE8), meaning a tight connection at Bitterfeld was missed. The S5X from Halle to Leipzig was packed with travelers heading from, or returning from the Leipzig-Halle Airport. The returnees very sunburned!
The trip that took 45 minutes on the way out, took an hour and 40 minutes on the way back (and covered about twice the distance!). Took the tram home, picking up a Doner kebab wrap with the help of another customer) from the Tamars joint near the tram stop (5 €) . A friendly black cat was sitting on our balcony when I returned.
Minuk thought that the sauce on the doner was too salty. We finished off the ice cream though.
Beer of the Day: Sternquell Burgerbrau Pilsener