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Monday 20 August
We were packed and ready to go early, after a breakfast time bidding farewell to all and sundry. Jon and Jo drove us to Kröpelin early to catch the train to Wismar (RB11). Drizzle as we waited.
I took a quick walk around the centre of Wismar before more rain sent me back to shelter of the station. Train onward to Wittenberge (RE2).
Next train took us to Magdeburg (S1). Another train from Magdeburg (HEX11) brought us to Halberstadt, where, after the train continued on its way, we found we’d were on the wrong carriage, and the train number had changed from HEX11 to HEX 4. Delayed 2 hours retracing our steps from Inselburg.
Arrived Quedlinburg 18:23, picked up by host’s friend Bianka at station.
Nice apartment in historic half-timbered building. Ground floor and no steps!
Shopped at REWE – big with a wide range.
Dinner was Pork Gyros, potato pancakes and salad. Tried some German white wine with dinner – Pfaltz Morio-Muskat – sweet but pleasant enough.
Tuesday 21 August
After breakfast a leisurely walk into the World Heritage listed Altstadt. Positively stuffed with picture postcard views of half-timbered Fachwerk buildings, an open air museum.
In the centre of the Altstadt is the fine Markt square, a roughly triangular space, surrounded by colourfully painted old buildings and presided over by the Rathaus, creeper festooned and bearing the proud statue of Roland. The square was thronged by tour groups with their associated ‘listen-to-me’s, but thankfully not the most irritating kind.
Afterwards, we separately wandered the twisting streets, spotting statues with sunglasses and admiring the views that unfolded around every corner. Met up and did a little shopping at a small supermarket, before returning to the Markt square, for a sausage snack lunch at a little hole in the wall place (Grillhaus "Schmalstes Haus) with jolly proprietor. We chose Harzer Schmorwurst and Quedlinburger Hexen Knacker, each in a bread roll with mustard. The stall was encrusted in witch effigies, which also appear everywhere around town, reflecting the pagan pre-Christian times. These are still celebrated come April 30, on Walpurgisnacht, where the ghostly Wild Hunt pursues the goddess Walpurga through hail and snow as winter yields to spring in the mountains. "There is a mountain very high and bare, whereon it is given out that witches hold their dance on Walpurgis Night," says folklorist Jacob Grimm in his Teutonic Mythology about the Brocken, highest peak of the Hartz mountains.
After lunch, I took a walk up the hill of the Münzenberg for good views of the Schloss and Stiftskirche. Also found the interesting Museum of Marienkirche, with vaulted catacombs uncovered and skeletons on display beneath the glass floors.
A walk to the past 10th century St Wuperti church (closed) to the Abteigarten, again with a fine view of the Schloss, reflected in its central pool. I returned to the apartment for a cooling afternoon drink, and salty chewy pretzel, enjoyed in our private courtyard.
Beer of the Day: Radelburger Pilsner.
Before dinner, Minuk and I went out for an abbreviated circuit of the Schloss, enjoying the cool air, observing that all the shops close quite early, leaving the streets eerily empty.
Dinner was a very tasty Pasta Marinara a la Quedlinburg, cooked in our very own kitchen.
Wednesday 22 August
After breakfast, a leisurely walk up to the fortress Stiftskirche and Schloss museum, high on the castle hill in coolish morning air for opening at 10am. Combined ticket 8.50 euro. Austere Romanesque three aisle Basilica with fine carved column capitals and friezes. Founded by Holy Roman Emperor Heinrich I, and finessed and expanded by his successor Otto I. Frescoes once covered the walls, but these are no more, though their ghosts can be seen in the crypts beneath the Gothic Altar which was built into the church by the Nazis, who used it as a Reich Hall, for their ceremonies.
After the war, the church was reinstated, communist government notwithstanding.
The Schloss Museum has a few interesting rooms, but was under renovation in some places, which detracted from the experience. Walked back to Altstadt, stepping into St Blaisi church, with its impressive wooden stalls and galleries. Continued along past the Markt, where it seemed to be market day, as the square was filled with stalls and food trucks. Further along Steinbrucke, some fine Jugendstil buildings are mixed amongst the Fachwerk (Nos 10 and 11 particularly fine examples). Bumped into Minuk who had been out trawling the shops, and we agreed to meet in the Markt square later to find lunch. I took a bit of a detour into the Neustadt, walking through the Neumarkt, and to St Jakobs church (under renovation), before returning to meet Minuk. We decided on roast chicken (1/2) and chips from one of the food trucks and returned home to enjoy it. Yum. Washed down with Schofferhofer Grapefruit Beer.
Later a walk to photograph the Jugendstil buildings (esp 10 and 11) in Steinbrucke, after arranging a lift to the station tomorrow morning with host Nicole, who was cleaning the upstairs apartment when I was leaving. Very kind of her.
Walk to REWE to buy supplies for dinner with a tired Minuk. Ice cream eaten on the way home failed to perk her up. Yummy meal of marinated chicken with potato pancakes and carrots prepared despite tiredness. Afterward, I went out to take night shots in the Markt square whilst Minuk collapsed into bed.
Beer of the Day: Schofferhofer Grapefruit Beer and Ur-Kroftitzer Feinherbes Pilsener.
We were packed and ready to go early, after a breakfast time bidding farewell to all and sundry. Jon and Jo drove us to Kröpelin early to catch the train to Wismar (RB11). Drizzle as we waited.
I took a quick walk around the centre of Wismar before more rain sent me back to shelter of the station. Train onward to Wittenberge (RE2).
Next train took us to Magdeburg (S1). Another train from Magdeburg (HEX11) brought us to Halberstadt, where, after the train continued on its way, we found we’d were on the wrong carriage, and the train number had changed from HEX11 to HEX 4. Delayed 2 hours retracing our steps from Inselburg.
Arrived Quedlinburg 18:23, picked up by host’s friend Bianka at station.
Nice apartment in historic half-timbered building. Ground floor and no steps!
Shopped at REWE – big with a wide range.
Dinner was Pork Gyros, potato pancakes and salad. Tried some German white wine with dinner – Pfaltz Morio-Muskat – sweet but pleasant enough.
Tuesday 21 August
After breakfast a leisurely walk into the World Heritage listed Altstadt. Positively stuffed with picture postcard views of half-timbered Fachwerk buildings, an open air museum.
In the centre of the Altstadt is the fine Markt square, a roughly triangular space, surrounded by colourfully painted old buildings and presided over by the Rathaus, creeper festooned and bearing the proud statue of Roland. The square was thronged by tour groups with their associated ‘listen-to-me’s, but thankfully not the most irritating kind.
Afterwards, we separately wandered the twisting streets, spotting statues with sunglasses and admiring the views that unfolded around every corner. Met up and did a little shopping at a small supermarket, before returning to the Markt square, for a sausage snack lunch at a little hole in the wall place (Grillhaus "Schmalstes Haus) with jolly proprietor. We chose Harzer Schmorwurst and Quedlinburger Hexen Knacker, each in a bread roll with mustard. The stall was encrusted in witch effigies, which also appear everywhere around town, reflecting the pagan pre-Christian times. These are still celebrated come April 30, on Walpurgisnacht, where the ghostly Wild Hunt pursues the goddess Walpurga through hail and snow as winter yields to spring in the mountains. "There is a mountain very high and bare, whereon it is given out that witches hold their dance on Walpurgis Night," says folklorist Jacob Grimm in his Teutonic Mythology about the Brocken, highest peak of the Hartz mountains.
After lunch, I took a walk up the hill of the Münzenberg for good views of the Schloss and Stiftskirche. Also found the interesting Museum of Marienkirche, with vaulted catacombs uncovered and skeletons on display beneath the glass floors.
A walk to the past 10th century St Wuperti church (closed) to the Abteigarten, again with a fine view of the Schloss, reflected in its central pool. I returned to the apartment for a cooling afternoon drink, and salty chewy pretzel, enjoyed in our private courtyard.
Beer of the Day: Radelburger Pilsner.
Before dinner, Minuk and I went out for an abbreviated circuit of the Schloss, enjoying the cool air, observing that all the shops close quite early, leaving the streets eerily empty.
Dinner was a very tasty Pasta Marinara a la Quedlinburg, cooked in our very own kitchen.
Wednesday 22 August
After breakfast, a leisurely walk up to the fortress Stiftskirche and Schloss museum, high on the castle hill in coolish morning air for opening at 10am. Combined ticket 8.50 euro. Austere Romanesque three aisle Basilica with fine carved column capitals and friezes. Founded by Holy Roman Emperor Heinrich I, and finessed and expanded by his successor Otto I. Frescoes once covered the walls, but these are no more, though their ghosts can be seen in the crypts beneath the Gothic Altar which was built into the church by the Nazis, who used it as a Reich Hall, for their ceremonies.
After the war, the church was reinstated, communist government notwithstanding.
The Schloss Museum has a few interesting rooms, but was under renovation in some places, which detracted from the experience. Walked back to Altstadt, stepping into St Blaisi church, with its impressive wooden stalls and galleries. Continued along past the Markt, where it seemed to be market day, as the square was filled with stalls and food trucks. Further along Steinbrucke, some fine Jugendstil buildings are mixed amongst the Fachwerk (Nos 10 and 11 particularly fine examples). Bumped into Minuk who had been out trawling the shops, and we agreed to meet in the Markt square later to find lunch. I took a bit of a detour into the Neustadt, walking through the Neumarkt, and to St Jakobs church (under renovation), before returning to meet Minuk. We decided on roast chicken (1/2) and chips from one of the food trucks and returned home to enjoy it. Yum. Washed down with Schofferhofer Grapefruit Beer.
Later a walk to photograph the Jugendstil buildings (esp 10 and 11) in Steinbrucke, after arranging a lift to the station tomorrow morning with host Nicole, who was cleaning the upstairs apartment when I was leaving. Very kind of her.
Walk to REWE to buy supplies for dinner with a tired Minuk. Ice cream eaten on the way home failed to perk her up. Yummy meal of marinated chicken with potato pancakes and carrots prepared despite tiredness. Afterward, I went out to take night shots in the Markt square whilst Minuk collapsed into bed.
Beer of the Day: Schofferhofer Grapefruit Beer and Ur-Kroftitzer Feinherbes Pilsener.