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Monday 13 August
Woke to light but steady drizzle after another restful sleep. Minuk’s pains a little less this morning.
Last morning in Nida, and a leisurely breakfast, packing before fare-welling Elena and walking down to the centre of town, to get a light lunch before catching a 1pm bus to Klaipeda. We chose to eat at Bo House, which we had spied out yesterday. The outside dining not possible due to the drizzle, but we were soon seated.
Sadly, that was the last good part of the Bo House experience. First we found that pizza could not be ordered, as they had ‘run out of cheese’ according to the waiter. Breakfast menu only was available. Oh well, we could roll with 2nd breakfast, so ordered Pancakes with bacon and honey. Also changed an order for beer order to a latte – a better match with pancakes. After a long wait, we got served eggs benedict. Advised not ours, and waited for pancakes. Never came and eventually asked waiter. Sorry, a mistake, but now no time to cook the pancakes before we’d need to leave to get a 1pm bus. Oh well, we accepted the eggs benedict (with bonus bacon). Waiter insisted we’d have to pay for the more expensive substituted meal. Oh well, we’d argue about it later. Needed to eat. So we did, and the food was competent and well presented. Asked for the bill, and found it was incorrect. Charged for the beer which we had swapped for a latte. Told the waiter I’d settle for 10 euros, which was only 20c more than our original order. To his credit, he agreed. Can’t figure why such a good looking and popular place was so shoddy. The staff looked unhappy, plonked drinks down on tables and did not check which language menu was required. Very frenetic, but generating more heat than light. Even the toilets were smelly and short of paper in the Ladies.
But we did get our 1pm bus to Smiltynes, which took the advertised hour. Short wait for the ferry to cross over, observed a massive German Cruise ship ‘Mein Schiff 1' in port. Fortunately, the rain had ceased by this time.
Soon enough we contacted our host Aleksandras, and were in a taxi to the little apartment. It is spacious compared to Elena’s, and has lots of quirky touches in the nautically flavoured décor. Kitchen though is very much a breakfast kitchen. We have arranged for Aleksandras to pick us up tomorrow evening at 8pm to take us to the Ferry Terminal.
We shopped for evening meals at Norfa, a supermarket just around the corner. A lack of prepared potato dishes means we have to resort to the Deb tonight. And canned peas! Also around the corner is the brewery operation of the Švyturys company, whose produce I have enjoyed during this trip.
Took ourselves out for a short stroll around the reconstructed Old Town of Memel, which was obliterated during WWII, but has been rebuilt in keeping with its former style with cobbled streets and half-timbered buildings (Fachwerk in German). These have most usually been transformed into galleries and restaurants. Made our way to the Theatre Square, and thence to the wrought iron ‘Chain Bridge’, which on cue was rotated manually by two strapping young dockworkers (as a few daring folk dashed across whilst the work was in progress!). The dockworkers did not bat an eyelid. A couple of yachts made their way past into the marina, whilst down at the Cruise Ship terminal, Mein Schiff 1 was blowing its horn, and setting sail, its balconies and decks thronged with passengers watching the departure.
Walked back to apartment via the promenade beside the Dane River, stopping to watch schoolkids to uncoordinated line dancing in the square in front of the Town Hall. Back at the apartment, we cooked dinner (and found the chicken Maryland to our liking). Peas, not so much.
Continued to read ‘City of Miracles’ before bedtime.
Beer of the Day: Gubenija Tamsusis Dark Lager
Tuesday 14 August
The day dawned drizzly and cool. Breakfast was sans eggs for the first time in a while. I made toasted cheese and ham sandwiches in our rather rinky dink kitchen.
The plan for the day was a trip to Palanga to visit the Amber Museum. We decided to walk the 2.5 km to the bus station to stretch out Minuk’s legs. Walked up Linden Street and through the ‘Sculpture Park’ en route. Caught an 11:20 minibus to Palanga (1.40 euro), after eating snacks bought from the Bus station’s Iki supermarket.
It took 30 minutes to get to Palanga. The bus which stopped near the Amber Museum left full with us still waiting in line. Caught a taxi instead (4 euro), who dropped us at what he claimed was ‘close’ to the Museum. It was still quite a long walk.
Nevertheless it was a pleasant one, through the Palanga Botanical Park. The museum is housed in the 19th century neoclassical mansion of one Count Feliksas Tiskevicius. The mansion is surrounded by a Rose Garden at rear, and in front, a classic formal garden. It allegedly houses 30,000 pieces of amber. The rooms of the mansion are reconstructed with contemporary furniture for visitors on the first floor. They are restrained in muted grey and white tones, whilst the story of Amber is displayed on the 3rd floor, with some excellent exhibits. Those of insects trapped in amber are enhanced by the use of magnifiers. Examples of the many colours in which the material was found were well laid out. First I had heard of green amber! Likewise, the study of the use of Amber as ornament by the original inhabitants was effective. And it could also be used as a source of medicines and tinctures. Additionally, there were some displays of modern jewellery. Plus of course the gift shop. Amber kitty costs 62 euro! Admission was 3 euro.
We got a taxi called to pick us up and take us to the bus station (5 euro), with the assistance of the front desk and a helpful visitor who translated. Back at the bus station we got an almost immediate bus back to Klaipeda (1.30 euro), complete with grumpy driver, who closed the door on a couple with bikes and a puppy, before relenting and letting them board. We got off fairly close to the centre, avoiding having to go to the bus station. It was just a kilometre walk back across the river Dane to find Rene’s, a Restaurant I’d spotted for a snack meal the previous day. Sadly though, it was closed, so we missed out on the famous Belgian fries, and the chance to try ‘biere cuisine’
Instead we ate Chinese food at Jing Bin Lou. Tasty meal for just under 20 euro. Especially good Eggplant with pork, Chicken with calamari less impressive but improved with chilli oil and soy sauce.
Quick dinner of sausages peas & mash before pickup by at 8pm Aleksandras, who left his son to clean up! Only took 10 minutes to reach the port.
Quickly boarded ‘Regina Seaways’, a newish but bog standard Car/Truck ferry. Our cabin small but functional. On board facilities look plain but clean and presentable. Preponderance of male, overweight truck drivers of Eastern European appearance among passengers! Left on time and cleared the mouth of the Curonian Lagoon, setting sail for Kiel
Beer of the Day: Volfas Engelman Bavarian Pilsener
Woke to light but steady drizzle after another restful sleep. Minuk’s pains a little less this morning.
Last morning in Nida, and a leisurely breakfast, packing before fare-welling Elena and walking down to the centre of town, to get a light lunch before catching a 1pm bus to Klaipeda. We chose to eat at Bo House, which we had spied out yesterday. The outside dining not possible due to the drizzle, but we were soon seated.
Sadly, that was the last good part of the Bo House experience. First we found that pizza could not be ordered, as they had ‘run out of cheese’ according to the waiter. Breakfast menu only was available. Oh well, we could roll with 2nd breakfast, so ordered Pancakes with bacon and honey. Also changed an order for beer order to a latte – a better match with pancakes. After a long wait, we got served eggs benedict. Advised not ours, and waited for pancakes. Never came and eventually asked waiter. Sorry, a mistake, but now no time to cook the pancakes before we’d need to leave to get a 1pm bus. Oh well, we accepted the eggs benedict (with bonus bacon). Waiter insisted we’d have to pay for the more expensive substituted meal. Oh well, we’d argue about it later. Needed to eat. So we did, and the food was competent and well presented. Asked for the bill, and found it was incorrect. Charged for the beer which we had swapped for a latte. Told the waiter I’d settle for 10 euros, which was only 20c more than our original order. To his credit, he agreed. Can’t figure why such a good looking and popular place was so shoddy. The staff looked unhappy, plonked drinks down on tables and did not check which language menu was required. Very frenetic, but generating more heat than light. Even the toilets were smelly and short of paper in the Ladies.
But we did get our 1pm bus to Smiltynes, which took the advertised hour. Short wait for the ferry to cross over, observed a massive German Cruise ship ‘Mein Schiff 1' in port. Fortunately, the rain had ceased by this time.
Soon enough we contacted our host Aleksandras, and were in a taxi to the little apartment. It is spacious compared to Elena’s, and has lots of quirky touches in the nautically flavoured décor. Kitchen though is very much a breakfast kitchen. We have arranged for Aleksandras to pick us up tomorrow evening at 8pm to take us to the Ferry Terminal.
We shopped for evening meals at Norfa, a supermarket just around the corner. A lack of prepared potato dishes means we have to resort to the Deb tonight. And canned peas! Also around the corner is the brewery operation of the Švyturys company, whose produce I have enjoyed during this trip.
Took ourselves out for a short stroll around the reconstructed Old Town of Memel, which was obliterated during WWII, but has been rebuilt in keeping with its former style with cobbled streets and half-timbered buildings (Fachwerk in German). These have most usually been transformed into galleries and restaurants. Made our way to the Theatre Square, and thence to the wrought iron ‘Chain Bridge’, which on cue was rotated manually by two strapping young dockworkers (as a few daring folk dashed across whilst the work was in progress!). The dockworkers did not bat an eyelid. A couple of yachts made their way past into the marina, whilst down at the Cruise Ship terminal, Mein Schiff 1 was blowing its horn, and setting sail, its balconies and decks thronged with passengers watching the departure.
Walked back to apartment via the promenade beside the Dane River, stopping to watch schoolkids to uncoordinated line dancing in the square in front of the Town Hall. Back at the apartment, we cooked dinner (and found the chicken Maryland to our liking). Peas, not so much.
Continued to read ‘City of Miracles’ before bedtime.
Beer of the Day: Gubenija Tamsusis Dark Lager
Tuesday 14 August
The day dawned drizzly and cool. Breakfast was sans eggs for the first time in a while. I made toasted cheese and ham sandwiches in our rather rinky dink kitchen.
The plan for the day was a trip to Palanga to visit the Amber Museum. We decided to walk the 2.5 km to the bus station to stretch out Minuk’s legs. Walked up Linden Street and through the ‘Sculpture Park’ en route. Caught an 11:20 minibus to Palanga (1.40 euro), after eating snacks bought from the Bus station’s Iki supermarket.
It took 30 minutes to get to Palanga. The bus which stopped near the Amber Museum left full with us still waiting in line. Caught a taxi instead (4 euro), who dropped us at what he claimed was ‘close’ to the Museum. It was still quite a long walk.
Nevertheless it was a pleasant one, through the Palanga Botanical Park. The museum is housed in the 19th century neoclassical mansion of one Count Feliksas Tiskevicius. The mansion is surrounded by a Rose Garden at rear, and in front, a classic formal garden. It allegedly houses 30,000 pieces of amber. The rooms of the mansion are reconstructed with contemporary furniture for visitors on the first floor. They are restrained in muted grey and white tones, whilst the story of Amber is displayed on the 3rd floor, with some excellent exhibits. Those of insects trapped in amber are enhanced by the use of magnifiers. Examples of the many colours in which the material was found were well laid out. First I had heard of green amber! Likewise, the study of the use of Amber as ornament by the original inhabitants was effective. And it could also be used as a source of medicines and tinctures. Additionally, there were some displays of modern jewellery. Plus of course the gift shop. Amber kitty costs 62 euro! Admission was 3 euro.
We got a taxi called to pick us up and take us to the bus station (5 euro), with the assistance of the front desk and a helpful visitor who translated. Back at the bus station we got an almost immediate bus back to Klaipeda (1.30 euro), complete with grumpy driver, who closed the door on a couple with bikes and a puppy, before relenting and letting them board. We got off fairly close to the centre, avoiding having to go to the bus station. It was just a kilometre walk back across the river Dane to find Rene’s, a Restaurant I’d spotted for a snack meal the previous day. Sadly though, it was closed, so we missed out on the famous Belgian fries, and the chance to try ‘biere cuisine’
Instead we ate Chinese food at Jing Bin Lou. Tasty meal for just under 20 euro. Especially good Eggplant with pork, Chicken with calamari less impressive but improved with chilli oil and soy sauce.
Quick dinner of sausages peas & mash before pickup by at 8pm Aleksandras, who left his son to clean up! Only took 10 minutes to reach the port.
Quickly boarded ‘Regina Seaways’, a newish but bog standard Car/Truck ferry. Our cabin small but functional. On board facilities look plain but clean and presentable. Preponderance of male, overweight truck drivers of Eastern European appearance among passengers! Left on time and cleared the mouth of the Curonian Lagoon, setting sail for Kiel
Beer of the Day: Volfas Engelman Bavarian Pilsener