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A long journey today saw us up bright and early, hitting the breakfast buffet at sparrows fart, in preparation for our 8am train to Shin-Osaka where we had a date with the 'Sakura' shinkansen en route to Hiroshima. Our train from Kanazawa was the 'Thunderbird' Limited Express, and it took us through flat countryside as it headed south before heading into the mountains toward Lake Biwa. A few tunnels brought us to the lakeside, and the urban conglomeration which is Kyoto. Zipped through to Shin-Osaka, found the shinkansen platforms and boarded the very comfortable 'Sakura', with wide comfortable seats, porthole like windows, and a smooth, smooth ride, accelerating to nearly 300kmh with barely a shudder.
It was an uneventful journey, with only a few stops, and many tunnels. We arrived in Hiroshima right on time, having travelled nearly 500km in under 5 hours.
It was an uneventful journey, with only a few stops, and many tunnels. We arrived in Hiroshima right on time, having travelled nearly 500km in under 5 hours.
AFter a few wrong turns....
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We bid Stephen and Clare farewell for the weekend on the platform at Hiroshima and went in search of the JR Sanyo line, to make our way to Minuk's former colleague Shizuka's apartment, near Itsukaichi.
First we boarded a train going in the wrong direction (to Tenjigawa), then after retracing our steps to Hiroshima and thence to Itsukaichi, waited on the wrong side of the station (north instead of south) whilst waiting to be met by Shizuka. We were joined by John, Shizuka's former 'house father' from her time staying in Australia, before Shizuka and her parents finally found us.
The Kandori's were staying in the 'guest' wing of Shizuka's apartment, on the 19th floor of a building overlooking the Inland Sea and the island of Miyajima.
First we boarded a train going in the wrong direction (to Tenjigawa), then after retracing our steps to Hiroshima and thence to Itsukaichi, waited on the wrong side of the station (north instead of south) whilst waiting to be met by Shizuka. We were joined by John, Shizuka's former 'house father' from her time staying in Australia, before Shizuka and her parents finally found us.
The Kandori's were staying in the 'guest' wing of Shizuka's apartment, on the 19th floor of a building overlooking the Inland Sea and the island of Miyajima.
an island shrine... and feral deer
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After a short break, Shizuka drove us to the island of Miyajima, to visit the famous 'Floating Tori' gate, and its associated shrine, which is built above the waters of the bay.
It was a cloudy afternoon, but still mild. It only took 15 minutes to drive to the ferry, the cost of which was inclusive of our JR Passes. We sat on the right hand side of the ferry, and were rewarded with good views of the bright orange painted O-Torii gate as the ferry turned to dock. The view of the vermilion tori gate is one of the canonical 'Three Views of Japan', attributed to scholar Hayashi Gaho in 1643 (and thus becoming one of the first pundits to make a list of attractions for folk to tick off, and argue what else should be on it).
Once off the ferry we were soon met by Miyajima's sacred deer. These beasts have no fear of humans, and wander at their own pace around the streets of the town, eating pretty much anything that falls to the ground. The deer pretty much fill the 'goat' niche in the ecosystem, and contribute to the lack of rubbish and litter. Shizuka advised that these deer could not be trusted. They were later to prove this with an unsuccessful snatch and grab raid on Shizuka, who was carrying a bag of 'Momiji manju' pastries (sometimes in the shape of maple leaves, or with a maple leaf emblem), a traditional souvenir from the island.
Miyajima means 'Shrine Island', and our destination was the Itsukushima shrine, which is constructed on piles over the waters of the bay. Its vermillion lacquer complements that of the great O Tori gate which guards its seaward side. The tides are large here, and we arrived at low tide, so the 'floating' aspect of the shrine and surrounds was lost for us. like the prospect of seeing the island's maple forest turn to crimson in the autumn, this is reason enough to plan a return in future.
It was a cloudy afternoon, but still mild. It only took 15 minutes to drive to the ferry, the cost of which was inclusive of our JR Passes. We sat on the right hand side of the ferry, and were rewarded with good views of the bright orange painted O-Torii gate as the ferry turned to dock. The view of the vermilion tori gate is one of the canonical 'Three Views of Japan', attributed to scholar Hayashi Gaho in 1643 (and thus becoming one of the first pundits to make a list of attractions for folk to tick off, and argue what else should be on it).
Once off the ferry we were soon met by Miyajima's sacred deer. These beasts have no fear of humans, and wander at their own pace around the streets of the town, eating pretty much anything that falls to the ground. The deer pretty much fill the 'goat' niche in the ecosystem, and contribute to the lack of rubbish and litter. Shizuka advised that these deer could not be trusted. They were later to prove this with an unsuccessful snatch and grab raid on Shizuka, who was carrying a bag of 'Momiji manju' pastries (sometimes in the shape of maple leaves, or with a maple leaf emblem), a traditional souvenir from the island.
Miyajima means 'Shrine Island', and our destination was the Itsukushima shrine, which is constructed on piles over the waters of the bay. Its vermillion lacquer complements that of the great O Tori gate which guards its seaward side. The tides are large here, and we arrived at low tide, so the 'floating' aspect of the shrine and surrounds was lost for us. like the prospect of seeing the island's maple forest turn to crimson in the autumn, this is reason enough to plan a return in future.
okonomiyake - tasty and a fine show
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We bid farewell to the island and the deer and made our way back to Itsuakaichi, where after a rest at Shizuka's, we were taken out to dinner at an Okonomiyaki restaurant by the Kandori's at one of their favourite places.
Okonomiyaki is a grilled pancake, with the Hiroshima style made with predominantly with shredded cabbage, layered with batter, pork belly, noodles, fried egg and generous amounts of okonomiyaki sauce (a bit like Worcestershire sauce, only sweeter and thicker). In this restaurant, the customer can sit at the counter and enjoy the show and the pancake is assembled and cooked in from to them on a huge hotplate. We enjoyed the meal with a beer, and side dishes of grilled oysters, sea urchin and chicken necks and a tapioca flour pancake.
The cook was quite the showman, flipping and moving the okonomiyaki with a flourish. His best 'trick' was the fried eggs, all of which were double yolkers!
After a filling meal, we toddled of back to Shizuka's to sleep off the day's exertions.
Okonomiyaki is a grilled pancake, with the Hiroshima style made with predominantly with shredded cabbage, layered with batter, pork belly, noodles, fried egg and generous amounts of okonomiyaki sauce (a bit like Worcestershire sauce, only sweeter and thicker). In this restaurant, the customer can sit at the counter and enjoy the show and the pancake is assembled and cooked in from to them on a huge hotplate. We enjoyed the meal with a beer, and side dishes of grilled oysters, sea urchin and chicken necks and a tapioca flour pancake.
The cook was quite the showman, flipping and moving the okonomiyaki with a flourish. His best 'trick' was the fried eggs, all of which were double yolkers!
After a filling meal, we toddled of back to Shizuka's to sleep off the day's exertions.