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We were treated to a ride to the station from Nick, one of our airbnb hosts, so were comfortably in time at the huge Tokyo Station to catch our very first shinkansen ride. very smooth as we left the city, headed northwest, on another brass blue sky day.
However, we soon found that one does not ride the bullet train for the scenery, as much of the trip up to Nagano was in tunnels under the mountains. The track must be as straight and level as possible, and in Japan, this means tunnels. There was only one stop, at a ski resort before we reached Nagano, which is surrounded by snowy mountains. A twenty minute wait and we were on the Snow Monkey Limited Express, which took 40 minutes to reach Yudanaka, where we were booked into the Shimaya Ryokan, a stiff 300m walk up from the station.
However, we soon found that one does not ride the bullet train for the scenery, as much of the trip up to Nagano was in tunnels under the mountains. The track must be as straight and level as possible, and in Japan, this means tunnels. There was only one stop, at a ski resort before we reached Nagano, which is surrounded by snowy mountains. A twenty minute wait and we were on the Snow Monkey Limited Express, which took 40 minutes to reach Yudanaka, where we were booked into the Shimaya Ryokan, a stiff 300m walk up from the station.
Shimaya was our first experience of the tatami room, though in this incarnation, behind the paper screens were hidden a table and chairs. The beds were to prove very comfortable too. However, after a short rest, our idiosyncratic proprietor had us in the van and whisked up the hill to the entrance to the Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (aka Snow Monkey park). It was a most pleasant walk for 40 minutes or so along a well graded forest path, along a steep hillside. Remnant snow still littered the sheltered places amongst the pine trees. |
We saw our first group of Japanese macaques before we even reached the entrance to the park. They were playing chasey and play fighting in the trees, and scuffling in the snow. Then we made our way into the sunny valley where the snow monkeys have their very own hot spring. With all the snow melted, the artificial nature of the pool is apparent, but it doesn't detract from the enjoyment of watching the activities of these apes, who went about their activities (mostly grooming, sleeping or play fighting), mostly oblivious to the posse of camera-clicking tourists. Anyway, some shots of our relatives for your enjoyment.
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Once we were all monkeyed out, it was time to walk back to Yudanaka. Fortunately it was downhill all the way, but it was becoming chilly. On the way we passed by traditional shrines and some fancy traditional homes, with neat woodpiles and elaborate gardens. We detoured through the narrow streets the town of Shibu Onsen the next town up the river from Yudanaka, where our fancy ryokan, Kokuya is located. We even walked past it on the way. We were able to stop at a shop and pick up supplies for breakfast the next morning (pot noodles), and some Japanese wine. There is quite an industry here in the Japan Alps, where the weather suits the humble grape (as well as stone fruits, chestnuts and other delights)
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We accepted the recommendation of Shimaya's owner and chose to eat at Asashinaya, where the room was warm, service was friendly and the food was pretty acceptable. I enjoyed my first serve of buckwheat noodles (soba), whilst Minuk and Clare chose a Yakiniku (grilled meat) set. Stephen chose tempura and all were pretty happy with our choices. Well filled, we farewelled the proprietor and the Tanuki in the corner (an image which greets one at a great many Japanese bars and restaurants, exhorting one to 'come in and enjoy', before toddling up the hill to a well earned rest.